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YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 164
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 18, 2014

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  • All climbing routes between and including C.O. to and including Paradigm Shift are closed. MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure-Lifted MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a fun steep new route that turned out much better than expected. However, it's not a good one for those uncomfortable with big overhangs.There's still a little loose rock but in general it's pretty clean and worth a go. Beware of the semi-sharp edge above the crux roof when toproping.

    Locate the low bolt just left of a detached looking block. Climb the steep wall past the bolt, a fixed stopper, and more gear to a stance and rest up for the big roof above. Continue up obvious features to the roof and a nice #1 camelot pocket. Move right and clip the bolt at the lip. Pull the roof a little right of the bolt via big reach to the lip and good holds. Cutting the feet loose -- Cliffhanger style -- gets you to bigger jugs and easier climbing. Continue up to the top and build an anchor. Either lower and toprope (and retrieve anchor on the way out) or bring second up.


    Located on the Upper Wall just right of "Going For Baroque" (the most obvious "crack" feature), and just left of "Blue Nude".


    2 bolts plus a medium sized rack up to # 2 camelot.

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