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Re-Thinking the Ethics 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Brian Shelton & Stewart Green, Sept., '04
Page Views: 5,141
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Apr 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (129)
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Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>


This route is short but sweet. The initial move to reach the first bolt could be the crux, then continue up past 3 more bolts, following a right facing dihedral to a 2 bolt anchor beneath the top of an arch. The second crux comes just above the last bolt, reaching to establish the layback position up the remainder of the corner. The guide info is from Stewart Green's publication.


This is the first route you come to on the Ripple Wall (furthest north).


4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. You can also place a #0.4 or 0.5 Camalot in between the last bolt and the anchor, but this is not really necessary.

Photos of Re-Thinking the Ethics Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Baker leading...on-sight.
Baker leading...on-sight.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the anchors.
At the anchors.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid-crux.  Photo by Brian R.
Mid-crux. Photo by Brian R.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice lead for RROS.
Nice lead for RROS.

Comments on Re-Thinking the Ethics Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 16, 2016
By Michael West
From: Enterprise, AL
Jun 8, 2008

Super fun, one of the best routes in RRCOS.
By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Jun 23, 2008

Once you've set the TR anchors, try the face route starting around the second birch tree. All you get are crimppers and 1/8" ledges. It's maybe 5.10 - really makes you trust your feet.
By Adub
Nov 21, 2008

Great route. Blood stain adds a little excitement to the route.
The second bolt was a wee bit loose last Sunday (11/16/08). I tightened it as tight as my fingers could get it. Otherwise, it was a stellar route.
By j.mayo
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 31, 2009

This is one of my favorites in RRCOS.
By mountainmicah83
From: Colorado Springs
May 5, 2010

It appears that there is a bolt scar between the current last bolt and the anchors where there used to be one more bolt. Once you get the undercling, there is only one committing move before it is actually more relaxing than the route looks.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Really fun route. Crux is definitely the start. I was about to lead it walking the upper ledge, as I had seen others do on top rope. A friend suggested I do the layback; really glad I did. That first move to establish is super fun!
By David Hertel
From: Haines, Alaska
Dec 16, 2010

I generally used the slopers above the rail more than the underclings. It just felt easier to balance to get my feet to a better stance. At the bolts, I was clinging to one of these said slopers and discovered (after I had anchored in with a sling) a ginormous hold directly above the anchor bolts in the bottom of the rail. Wish I had found that one out beforehand. It would certainly have made things a lot less complicated. Fortunately though, I didn't take a whipper, but it was sure a difficult on-sight for my level of climbing and style.
By Ryan Reid
Sep 30, 2012

This is one of the best climbs here. Always fun!
By John D
Nov 26, 2012

Any thoughts on whether or not this route would go on gear? I've been eyeing it for a couple of months now but haven't gotten around to getting on it.
By AnthonyM
Feb 5, 2013

This is a fantastic climb....

We tried it on gear, and it appears that the sandstone is too weak....

Early last summer, my buddy and I were placing some gear (to get closer to the corner/climb it more naturally).... I slipped (about three or four feet above the cam that was deep in the crack) and it ripped out huge chunks of sandstone. It didn't ruin or change the climb at all, but some of the crack is now a bit wider. I would recommend against the gear and feel that the bolts are very well placed. One climber walking past us said he tried gear too and decided it wasn't worth it about halfway up after having a hold break.
By Cyril Multhauf
From: Fort Collins, CO
Oct 19, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route looks so classic, it's just a clean undercling crack that just yells at you to climb it.

I ended up not leanbacking the undercling (I am 6'5", and that would have been a bit uncomfortable). If you have decent, balancing footwork, you can slab between the third bolt and the anchor. If you chose that way, there is a second crux at the last move before the anchor.
By JWolford
Jun 16, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Awesome route! The crux move is definitely at the bottom. Solid feet have been ground into the slab over the years, so it's a super easy (5.9) climb now.
By peakest
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 12, 2016

Very fun route. I climbed through the thin face which I believe made it a little harder for myself. Thin feet and slow movement. A+.
By Jason Denley
From: CO, AK
Oct 16, 2016

If it were only longer... great route! Undercling after the last bolt to the anchors, optional pocket or two about halfway. I felt no need for a cam. Have fun.

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