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RCM (Redneck Cracker Motherf*ckers) S 

RCM (Redneck Cracker Motherf*ckers) 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Erik Anderson, Crystal Anderson, 11/2004
Page Views: 679
Submitted By: andy patterson on Jun 21, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Quasi awkward start of RCM

Description 

Since the route begins in a narrow corridor, it is possible to stem the start, then move out on the face after the second bolt or so. The rest of the route clocks in at 5.10c.

HOWEVER,

the start certainly goes without stemming, and offers some very powerful crimping with very poor feet (5.11d/5.12a).

Location 

Just left of Flappy.

Protection 

10 bolts. Draws.


Comments on RCM (Redneck Cracker Motherf*ckers) Add Comment
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By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Carpinteria, CA
Jun 21, 2009

Thinking the stemming option verboten, I did the start with only the face-holds, and was promptly surprised by the difficulty—and quality—of the route. Be warned, however, that a fall during the first twenty feet of climbing could end with a decidedly brutal "pinball" fall down the corridor. The non-stemming start is cool, but not secure.
By BAd
Apr 17, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Just did this a couple of days ago. What a route! I took a stupid fall at the 3rd bolt and immediately saw my mistake and fired what we thought was the crux. The rest of it went smoothly. So I have to go back and do it in one go, no falls. I did enjoy having a couple of cams for the upper crack because I'm chicken, and it's STEEP up there! When I go back, I'll take just one purple Camelot for the section between the last two bolts. 10c? Dunno, but the lower crux was tough. I went at it thinking 10b as the guide book says. I'm stoked if the consensus is 10c. The workouts are finally paying off!
By butters
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
May 19, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

the section between the last 2 bolts certainly gets your attention. its not a bad idea to a bring a .75 or .5. i didnt place one and by the time i was at the last bolt my opinion about placing a piece between the bolts changed.. hah!
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Love those chimney starts! Starts to get pumper a bit at the top but noting to worry about. Last few moves seem steep. 3.366 stars.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 14, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I'm generally a fan of a chimney, this one is was a little intimidating. Perhaps due to cold-finger first route of the day but was thrilled I opted out of the lead, the start definately had my attention. The route is sustained, with holds just when you need them. Not really a pump fest but has your scrutiny the whole way. Good value and a fine line. Truley an area classic.

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