|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Jim Wilson, Tobin Sorenson & John Long 1974|
|Submitted By:||C Miller on Mar 7, 2006|
|Comments on Razor's Edge||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Aug 27, 2014
|No bats but plenty of lizards. Yea, that's a thin flake!|
Apr 10, 2015
This is the vastly easier and not-a-classic analog to Wheat Thin in The Valley. I rather enjoyed this route, but the approach is a bit sketchy if you are unroped. I'd recommend doing the 5.7 approach crack that leads up into the bowl directly.
Pro: Base of flake Belay= #7Hex, 1.5 Friend
Lead = #1 & #1.5 Friend for the "thick" parts of the flake, then one each
#1,2,3 Camalots for the leaning crack, draws for the 2 bolts
(Note: There was only one bolt here in '91)
Top Belay = bolted
The rap is 165' to the ground, so bring a second rope to do just that and you'll avoid the sketchy, slippery, sloping bowl experience.
Climber's left of this route are two bolted face routes that I climbed, thinking they were both rather cool. While you are up there, take the little traverse to the left and you can TR these at 5.11 something each. The left one (Sublunary Flight. .11a..?) is easier than the right (Kiss of the Spider Woman.. 11b/c..?)
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Aug 29, 2015
Where's the fun in knowing all the details of the route before getting on it?
Thanks for the write up, Chris.