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Razor Crack 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 577
Submitted By: Ken Trout on Apr 27, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Razor Crack, 5.9

Description 

Rated 5.7 in Greg Orton's guide book. That is quite a sandbag! Or maybe a mistake since the topo on page 45 indicates the crack as a 5.12b. Most importantly, Razor Crack is the classic finger and hand crack of Ashland, Oregon.

Morning shade is pleasant, even when Ashland's high temperatures are in the 90F range.

There is poison oak, hidden amongst the Oregon grape where you may want to pile your rope.

Location 

Where the trail meets the cliff, go right.

Protection 

.4 to #4 camalots

Nice chains on the two bolt anchor.


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By Scott Becker
From: Medford, Oregon
Oct 21, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

One of my favorite climbs at Greensprings. The newer guide calls this 5.8, I think, which I think is fair. The crack starts at finger size and widens to about 4". My rack for this climb is BD 0.5, 0.75, 2 and 3. You can't fit a #4 in until you can almost reach the chains. But if you really want to sew this up, it might be worth bringing.
By Scott Becker
From: Medford, Oregon
Jun 20, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Looks like a big chuck of rock fell the middle of this rig recently. Doesn't change the difficulty of the route but might want to bring an extra finger size piece if you have your rack pared down...