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Razor Blade Ridge 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Dane Bass and Kevin Underhill, 2001
Page Views: 847
Submitted By: Kevin Wagner on Dec 20, 2014

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Razorblade Ridge as seen from Scariest Ride ridgel...

Description 

Walk into the canyon and stare in awe and intimidation at the 5,000 ft Scariest Ride in the Park ridge which summits El Toro. Turn your attention left toward the similar, although less impressive and intimidating knife blade ridge which begins in the super clean Craig Luebben dihedral and climbs several traverses and head walls to a pointy summit adjacent to the summit of Estraillita.

This is a fantastic outing and an excellent first limestone ridge climb in the canyon, although the danger factor for yourself, and more so for the parties below you, should not be under estimated. The ridge is LOOSE, and a large percentage of your day will be spent tip-toeing on the rocks that make the least amount of noise. Luckily, the rock quality improves on the head walls, and protection may be found throughout if you are willing to search. Just be careful, and you'll have a great time! It is recommended to belay short of the base of each headwall in case something does become dislodged, although you may have to fight some drag before you find something you're willing to use as an anchor. Simul-climbing is not necessary or recommended given the relatively short length and loose factor, making a fall on easy terrain much more probable. Pitch it out 6 or 7 times over the double-exposed ridge until you reach the cool summit and belay at the super-comfy anchor on Will the Wolf Survive. From here it is four easy raps to the ground. Finally, be careful not to pass the anchor on the first rappel, which is approximately 30 feet below the summit, beneath the overhang. A 70m will NOT reach the next anchor if you attempt to pass this station.

Location 

Climb Pepe Y Lupe (also known as the Craig Luebben Route: 5.7, 5.10b impressive dihedral, 5.9) to the start of the ridge.

Descent: rappel Will the Wolf Survive once the ridge ends at the summit.

Protection 

Single rack of cams (to #3 C4) and nuts. C3 size cams are useful. Long slings and cordellette. Doubles of any size would be way overkill.


Photos of Razor Blade Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful and sharp Razor Blade Ridge.
The beautiful and sharp Razor Blade Ridge.

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By Kevin Wagner
From: Tucson, Arizona
Dec 20, 2014

This was my favorite climb of the trip (above TWZ, but perhaps to each his own) for the adventure, the exposure, and the experience of climbing such a cool and impressive feature of rock. Be careful. I hope I didn't provide too much beta. We had next to none and couldn't find anybody to talk to who had climbed it before, which made for a fun adventure.

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