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Start up with moderate moves to the first bolt. From here work with with a devious undercling sidepull, or reach past to pockets of various quality. Eventually a nice sidepull jug or higher jugs can be used for clipping the second bolt. Head up through steep rock on good holds with a few big moves thrown in. Rest where possible for the rightward traverse and a final heartbreaking crux before the anchors.
Between John Wayne's Knee and Chuckwagon. Second route from the entrance with fixed draws.
6 fixed draws to Anchors. Consider stickclipping the first draw and possibly the second as the moves to the second draw aren't trivial. This will however take a incredibly long stickclip.
Amy cranking through the redpoint crux. Fall 2013.
From: odessa texas
Aug 15, 2016
Right hand hold for the big throw move in center section of climb completely broke off. Still totally doable and doesn't change grade but the super classic big move (dyno for some) is a no go no mo. Still a great climb and my personal favorite in the canyon.