|Type:||Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400', Grade II|
|Original:||WI3 M4 Mod. Snow [details]|
|FA:||May 12, 2012 (Anastasia Blagoveshchenskaya, and Vitaliy Musiyenko)|
|Submitted By:||SirTobyThe3rd on May 21, 2012 with updates from Sam Bedell|
|Comments on Ravine||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Allen Sanderson
Aug 29, 2012
This line or approximately the same line was originally done in 1958 (May 18, 1958) by Dave Bohn, Art Maki, and Al Combs. There is reference to this line in Oregon High by Jeff Thomas as a variation to Eliot Glacier (Route 7a) and is described as "Stay close to the North Face Cleaver. Gain the col behind Cathedral Spire and follow the last 500 feet of the North Face."
The line described above does the same in that it gains the col behind Cathedral Spire. One can debate the conditions in which the route was originally climbed and this ascent as well as whether both parties followed the exact same line it is moot as it is well accepted that once a route is climbed is has been climbed regardless of the conditions. That is unless there is a significant variation which I do not believe to be the case.
Especially when it comes it snow/ice routes. One year a line could be a snow slog, the next an ice route, and late in the season being a rock route. Given that the route is one pitch of ice and the current state of the glaciers it is highly probable that the first ascent party did their ascent as a steep snow climb.
The above is not to diminish what has been reported as it is interesting to see the changes in routes. And it provides an escape if the Headwall is out of condition.
Dec 4, 2012
|The description does sound similar, but the line drawn in the guidebook goes right, while our route goes up (descriptions could sound similar for any climbs, it's the visual line drawn by the team that makes sense the most- to me at least). Even in high snow year there are parts that are too steep to keep snow. Whatever the case is, we are claiming we did the first ICE ascent of the route :) If someone is looking to avoid that neve climbing and wants to get on some steeper water ice, this is a good line- when "IN"|
Nov 3, 2013
|More importantly, V - have you ever been to Lee Vining?!?!?|