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Mosquito Gulley T 
Raven T 

Raven 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 550'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 354
Submitted By: MalcolmS on Aug 20, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from top of pitch 2

Description 

Varied climbing including finger cracks, fist jams, face moves, and open corners, takes you up the center of this impressive wall overlooking town. Rock is generally high quality though the route has seen very little traffic. This, plus the varied terrain and spectacular views make it a must-do climb. Expect to encounter debris and vegetation in many cracks. First ascent unknown, likely made during the days of the active Sondrestrom Air Base. Ascent in July 2014 found a few fixed bolts and some old abandoned gear in cracks.

Pitch 1, 5.7, starts left of cliff center, above a telephone pole, in an enjoyable finger-width crack which tops out on face moves to a narrow grassy ledge with bolts. Pitch 2, 5.8, Starts to the left of the anchors and then trends right up an angled flake with underclings and jams to a small but adequate belay stance on gear. Pitch 3, 5.8, continued varied face and crack moves toward the base of a left-facing open corner. May be split into 2 pitches for rope drag. Pitch 4, 5.7, starts below an open, left-facing corner system, to the top.

Location 

Starts just left of center cliff, identified by where the cliff descends all the way to the dirt road. Hike left past the telephone pole, up a sandy rise to an obvious finger-crack start, about 20 feet above the road.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 cam, 60m rope.


Photos of Raven Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: View from top of pitch 1.  Center cliff, where the...
BETA PHOTO: View from top of pitch 1. Center cliff, where the...

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