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YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Robert Warren, Steve Johnson 1988
Season: Cooler weather.
Page Views: 2,754
Submitted By: jakobi on Nov 8, 2010

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Cogswell Tower

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


The route was put in the late 80's at 5.11 C1 and was the first ascent of Cogswell Tower. It's unclear whether a free ascent had yet been done, though my partner and I freed the aid sections; a tenuous section on the top of the second pitch and the offwidth roof on the third, at 5.11+ and 5.11 respectively. The route begins on the right side of the south face.
p1: Start in a cleft which tapers into a fist/hand crack and a right-facing dihedral, the pitch angles right through easier ground and ends at a good belay ledge with bolted anchors. 5.10
p2: Climb straight up from the belay following an incipient seam and faceholds into the crescent-shaped pod. the line arcs left through easier ground to a dihedral feature with a flake to it's right (the crux). Some groveling ends at another good ledge with bolted anchors. 5.11+.
p3: Follow the 6' crack into the slot and out the roof. Past the roof a short section of easier offwidth ends on the summit. 5.11
Descent: Double ropes (70m) gets you down in two raps.


There are two options for accessing Cogswell tower and the scattered routes in this section of Hatch Wash, though we opted for the west approach which is the longer drive though enables a hike in rather than the shorter east approach which involves a long rappel-in-jug-out. Turn off Hwy. 191 on the Needles/Anticline Overlook Road, continue for 14.9 miles and take a right just after passing the Needles Overlook spur to the left. Follow the graded 2wd road 2.5 miles and take a left, shortly you'll cross a cattle guard and come to another fork; take the right. After .9 mile there will be a natural gas mine and another fork, stay to the right. 1.2 miles later is another fork, again stay right and in another .8 mile you'll be at the rim and a campsite which looks directly over the tower. An old cairn-marked cow trail drops into the canyon which is reached by walking the rim to the right for a hundred yards or so.


A standard desert rack, with 1 #5 and #6 Camalot or equivalent.

Photos of Raven Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cogswell Tower
Cogswell Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Cogswell Tower from the base. Raven is the rightmo...
Cogswell Tower from the base. Raven is the rightmo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping off
Rapping off
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the 2nd and third pitches from the nice be...
View of the 2nd and third pitches from the nice be...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view from the rim.
The view from the rim.
Rock Climbing Photo: There will be blood...
There will be blood...
Rock Climbing Photo: Raven follows the wandering crack system on the ri...
BETA PHOTO: Raven follows the wandering crack system on the ri...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cogswell Tower from the west rim of Hatch Wash.
Cogswell Tower from the west rim of Hatch Wash.

Comments on Raven Add Comment
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By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Nov 8, 2010

hey this route sounds great but can you give a more detailed route description?
By Matt Pickren
Nov 6, 2011

Matt, you're right, this is a great route, you sould get on it. I think it would be a good winter climb on a nice day. The route is due S facing and you could easily wait at your car until the sun hits you, make it down, climb it and out without ever loosing the sun. The hike it is one of the most casual gullies I've done in the desert. Simply hike to the south face and look for the shallow yet wide short chimney which turns into a R facing corner. From there it is relativey straight forward, follow cracks up. Its been years, but I am pretty sure we did it free in 2 pitches.

The crux was finding the tower, but Jakobi did an excellent job describing the drive in.

Good luck, and let me know if you need more beta. Matt
By Marcus garcia
From: Durango, Co.
Nov 17, 2011

This is a great route,
Ryan Ray and I climbed a corner around from the route and I feel it is a first ascent as we had to do a little cleaning. It climbs 2 great pitches at 5.10 and 5.11+(little spicy at the top before the anchor). We installed an anchor on a ledge. Later Miles Newby and I came back and did anothe ascent linking the route we call The Forrester in to the second crux of the Raven. It turned out to be one of the best routes I have climbed.
marcus garcia
By Steve Bond
Aug 29, 2016

This has got to be it, right? 38.296247, -109.482610 (paste into Google Maps)

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