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2. Indigenous Wall
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Raven Song 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Loran Smith, Ri Fahnestock, & Mike Veasey. April 5, 2013 (Direct Finish) Loran Smith, Joshua Corbett, Steve Arsenault, & Sarah Arsenault
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,561
Submitted By: EDGE on Apr 5, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Joshua Corbett studies the 5.8ish move through the...

Description 

This route takes a direct line from the start of Midnight Special straight to the top of the cliff. Similar climbing to Suicide Wall with interesting moves and decent gear, but at an easier grade.

Start as for Midnight Special, heading up to the hollow flakes and block (good pro in suspect rock, first crux), then straight up to a lone ponderosa pine on a 12" deep ledge. Continue up the clean rock directly above the tree following the line of least resistance, passing a tricky move at a long reach to a short flake (second crux).

Fun climbing leads to the top of the steeper rock at a pine tree growing downwards along the face (possible finish here by traversing right 15-20' to reach the double bolts atop Suicide Wall). For the Direct Finish, step over the pine to a short dike and easy slabs (5.3R) heading for the final overlaps. Pull through just left of a clump of birch trees at a V shaped notch (5.8ish?) or step left then up to the anchor tree atop the route (5.5).

Location 

Start as for Midnight Special, directly above the log hangout area just left of the prominent blocky corner of Orthanc.
Rap off the Suicide Wall anchors with one 60 meter rope, or from atop the Direct Finish rap off of a 8" diameter pine tree with two 60M ropes.

Protection 

Standard rack to 2 1/2".


Photos of Raven Song Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Arsenault ponders the consequences of pullin...
Steve Arsenault ponders the consequences of pullin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steve Arsenault just past the crux on Raven Song.
Steve Arsenault just past the crux on Raven Song.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah Arsenault just below the crux moves.
Sarah Arsenault just below the crux moves.

Comments on Raven Song Add Comment
Show which comments
By EDGE
From: Between Nederland and Boulder,
Apr 27, 2013

Now thoroughly scrubbed and with the addition of the Direct Finish, this route is fully deserving of three stars and should become a popular line for the confident 5.7 leader. The pro is good at each of the two short cruxes, but will be below your feet.
By ChrisN
From: Morro Bay, CA
Nov 24, 2014

Another great route at Longstack. Be aware of rope drag if you plan on doing this in one long pitch. Easily split into two shorter pitches with a belay at the obvious tree/ledge.
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jul 4, 2017

Definitely PG in the grade, and may feel a bit tougher for shorter climbers. Fun route that is well worth getting on though.

There is no anchor setup on the tree on top of the route. Unless you plan to leave your own tat, prepare to walk off. There is a pretty easy walkoff trail back in the woods just a bit that goes to climber's left. It is orange-blazed sparsely, but should be fairly obvious (NOT the major ATV trail. Just a little footpath)

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