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g. V3 - Middle Earth
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YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy & Bill Goldner, Fall 1963
Page Views: 2,989
Submitted By: Big Perm on Nov 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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Vivian going after the direct variation on a nice ...


P1: Either boulder up to the pine ledge at 15', or if it's wet, walk around left. From the pine ledge, gain the right-facing corner, and make enjoyable moves to about halfway up it. Step left onto the face, then up and back towards the crack. Finish up the crack to the tree.

"Direct" variation: stay in the right-facing corner (5.9) instead of stepping left.

P2: The second pitch is also worth doing. A hardish move off the belay ledge leads up a shelved face to the overhang above. Traverse up and left to a fixed pin, then through the notch in overhang (crux) and up right until one can go up the face to the grand traverse ledge. Soft 5.8, but with thinnish pro on the (easy) face prior to the overhang.


60 ft. right of the Dis-Mantel block,and behind a big tree; look for an obvious right-facing corner above a short overhang.


Standard rack - make sure you have small pieces or small nuts. The tree has a rap station at ~80ft.

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By Tim Schafstall
Apr 11, 2008

A nice variation is to continue straight up after moving out of the corner to the obvious finger crack on nice white rock above. Surmount the overhang using the crack, then move right to the belay/rap tree. This is the top part of 'Stop the Presses, Mr. Williams!'
By Gunkiemike
Oct 3, 2009

Actually Tim, that is the route Osteopath, which Swain described as a distinct line at 5.6, but DW considers a variation to STP. Climbed a la Swain, it is the easiest route to the pine tree. I think Raunchy with the 5.9 direct "variation" (it was a later addition to the route; a tree stump blocked a direct line back in the day, forcing the detour onto the left face) is a *** pitch.
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Jun 23, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

For someone just starting to lead 5.8 at the gunks, i found the gear to be excellent , except for the slab at the bottom, which can be avoided. But climbs well with a good spotter. Do not let the p.g rating deter you from getting on this excellent route. Really great varied moves on beautiful clean rock. Did first pitch only.
By Adam Fernandez
From: Matawan NJ
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Did the 5.9 Variation onsight. Gear is good but small and I had to be a little creative with placements in the thin crack. I used both a green and purple c3. Overall I enjoyed the climb!
By SethG
May 20, 2014

Nuts my friends. That thin 5.9 crack eats nuts, I think I placed three of 'em.
By Logan Schiff
From: Brooklyn, NY
Oct 4, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Followed a friend on this to the top in one pitch. Second pitch had a fun 5.8 roof but involved some R-rated runout licheny face climbing right after the tree at the ledge. Book says 5.5 (and supposedly protects with ballnutz, though wasn't seeing where), but felt harder to me.

From the top we scrambled to climber's left along narrow ledge to the belay tree for Immaculate Virgin. 70m gets you into a gulley and you can just rap off the end into a little foot ledge in a cave and then step down to the ground.

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