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Rat's Rock

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Rat's Rock Rock Climbing 

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Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Jun 7, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: West face of Rat's Rock, Upper La Cueva Canyon, Sa...


This summit lies southeast of Torreon. From a distance it sort of gets lost in the maze of walls and spires in Upper La Cueva Canyon.
Described by Hill's guidebooks (e.g., 1993:152-153). It appears that all the established routes are on the western aspect of the crag.

Getting There 

We approached from the La Luz; continue down the switchbacks past Donald Duck. Once at the switchback that puts you below the Fin, bushwack north to the western base of the rock.
Once you've summited, scramble down the back side (east), turn north up the aspen filled gully, and then head east when the forested slopes thin out; you should intersect the La Luz again somewhere high up, near the first wilderness sign if you're lucky. Doing it this way means you shouldn't leave packs at the bottom of Rat's Rock, it would be a PITA to get back to them.

Alternately, maybe some variation of Schein's approach and descent to and from Torreon could be good too.

Climbing Season

For the La Cueva Canyon, Upper area.

Weather station 0.7 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Rat's Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Lost Hole (5.7), Rat's Rock, Upper La Cueva Canyon...

Lost Hole 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  New Mexico : Sandia Mountains : ... : Rat's Rock
This is a spicy backcountry adventure, with a somewhat worrisome amount of loose rock and wedged blocks. Described by Hill (1993:152-153) as a 5.7, but that rating would probably be considered a sandbag these days. We climbed it according to his pitch breakdown, but obviously some could be combined with today's longer ropes.P1, climb a right-facing dihedral to a nice ledge at 95 feet.P2, trend right under some fun overhangs. Belay on a ledge at 95 feet (sorta manky rock, though), or continue ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

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