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Rated G 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ren-Shiang Chen
Page Views: 143
Submitted By: Danger on Mar 25, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Fun 5.10 climbing to the overhang. From here a finger rail sets you up for powerful moves to gain the roof. Fight to the anchors on thankfully sharp rock.

Location 

Shares the start for Rated R and PG but diverges right.

Protection 

316 steel (2005)

Two bolts added on the slab (2014)


Comments on Rated G Add Comment
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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Sep 10, 2014
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I found the bottom half to be super-simple low 5th-class climbing in a sea of bolted cracks.

Get into the dark, slimy finger slot below the roof. Do not go left, but instead straight up. Just at the turn of the overhang, there is a protruding pinch that makes for a wild long move, or some seriously heinous crimping. Once into the sharp rock above, the difficulty lets up only slightly as you gain the face.

Extremely short, technical 5.11 (more like LD 5.12+).
By Danger
From: Taipei City
Jan 8, 2017

this is indeed probably undergraded, particularly so when you consider that anything less than perfect beta will have you pulling soooolid 5.12 moves.

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