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Rat Salad T 

Rat Salad 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 1000', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Joe French and Jersey Dave Littman
New Route: Yes
Season: spring or fall
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: jersey on Feb 19, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: route topo

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Rat Salad climbs directly up the East prow of the Sanctuary on soft white rock slabs. Some simu-climbing was done, some marginal belays and bushes were used. The Crux is at the pin (was a solid placement at the time of the f.a.). Cross the summit plateau and scramble up the final summit block.

Location 

Descent- rappels from pines to a single drilled pin in the lower angle slab.

Protection 

1 each of B.D. cams .5-3, 2 each of TCU's 1-3, 2- 200 ft. ropes


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By deadly dan
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jul 14, 2017

Roped solo this spring during the first known ascents and a traverse of the two formations to the south of the Sanctuary and east to the formation between them and Church Mesa. Full trip report to be published in the AAJ (American Alpine Journal) this coming year.

The rock and route on the Sanctuary are similar to that on Checkerboard Mesa. Nothing personal to the FA party - like many new routes in Zion, bolts simply don't belong out there and are not needed. Plenty of bushes and cracks. I did not find the FA party's bolt May have climbed past it.

Please note the summit is a NRA (Natural Resource Area), closed to the public. You are only allowed to climb to the rim. Not sure why the topo has a rappel descent to the east. You can easily rap the route (off bushes) when you get there. It seems it would be more difficult to locate the FA's descent (and rap bolt on the descent). Please don't leave slings. The Sanctuary does not see enough traffic. They'll rot in the sun.

The crux isn't the climbing - it's navigating the approach hike in and out :)
and carrying climbing gear out there with bivy gear.

Will submit some pictures..

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