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Rat Race 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: dry
Page Views: 3,639
Submitted By: rhyang on Jan 4, 2011

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pulling the roof

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Head up a crack, pass a tree into a left-facing corner beneath a big roof. Place a couple of pieces in the lip, then reach up to the hidden hold and stem over the roof. Jamming skills useful here. The roof looks hard but is actually not so bad if you get the sequence right. Bolt anchor at the top with rings.


Take the Moses Spring trail from the parking lot, and turn right at the Tourist Trap sign; scramble down and then back up. Last year a lot of work was done in this area and there are new stone steps. There is a tree near the base which makes a good belay anchor.

Descend by rappel.


The books say pro to 4-5", but #2 / 0.75 camalots fit in the lip just fine. Perhaps some mid-sized nuts if you really want to sew it up. Long sling for the tree.

Photos of Rat Race Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Erick on the Crux move
Erick on the Crux move
Rock Climbing Photo: 10-April-2010: Me below the roof
10-April-2010: Me below the roof

Comments on Rat Race Add Comment
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By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Jan 9, 2011

Great climb! I didn't believe this roof would go at 5.7 until I committed to the moves. That jug above the roof is key. With some perfect jams and smearing on the right, just go for it. #2 BD in the roof protects perfectly. Rock is solid here.
By brown145
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Roof is easier that it looks (from the ground or immediately below it); but I don't think its 5.7 easy. Anchor on top is well placed for rappel but will pendulum swing anyone trying to follow on TR if they fail on the roof.
By Adam Merry
From: Monterey
Jan 22, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route for warming up or practicing jamming/smearing. The jug in the crack underneath the roof makes pulling over the roof MUCH easier. The jug is quite a way into the crack though so keep reaching.

After you pull the roof it helps to place a friend with a sling into the crack as a directional for your follower.
By Dawn Jacob
May 8, 2017

There is an easy-to-overlook bolt about 8 feet back from the lip and about 6 feet climber's right of the anchor that can offer some redirect for a follower or top-roper coming up through the crux.

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