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Unsorted Routes:

Rat Race 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: B Robertson, J MacLean, 1963, FFA M Graham 1978
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Sep 11, 2007

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A climber starting up the classic Rat Race

Description 

The first free ascent of Rat Race was a break trough in Scottish free climbing and is still a hard tick to onsight.

1. Climb up the pod like crack on the left of the steep central wall. Climb the crack above to a difficult section exiting the niche at 2/3 height. From the niche continue up the crack to the hanging belay.

2. Make hard moves of the stance and gain the right trending groove. When possible pull left through the roof on huge holds for spectacular moves. Continue on up the short wall above to the top.

Location 

Left edge of the steep central wall.

Protection 

Trad Gear, 3 fixed pins.


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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Mammoth Lakes
Sep 11, 2007

Protection on the 1st pitch is adequate, but it is strenuous to place. The second pitch is wild!

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