REI Community
Swirley Boulder
Select Route:
Certain Other, The 
Child of the Storm 
Da Luvah 
Jon's Arete 
Jon's Arete Right 
Rat Fish Dyno 
Rose, The 
Sit and Deliver 
Stand & Deliver 
Swirley Flake 
Swirley Slab 
Topout Problem, The 
Uncle Climax 

Rat Fish Dyno 

Hueco: V11 Font: 8A

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 1,528
Submitted By: Jeremiah Johnson on Feb 21, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Getting close! One of these days it'll go down...


This is a quick one-move wonder for those with a big wingspan and strong fingers. On the face on the backside of the swirly boulder, locate the unusual black triangular pinch. Grab this with your right hand and find one of two sloping dishes out left for your other hand. Put a foot on the wall and dyno for the sloping lip of the boulder. Catch it and top out. It takes nearly a six-foot wingspan just to grab onto the starting holds, so the grade is arbitrary at best - it's v-impossible if your reach is too much less than 6'.


On the backside of the Swirly Boulder next to the Rose.


Pads and a spot.

Photos of Rat Fish Dyno Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The very hard one mover on the swirley boulder
BETA PHOTO: The very hard one mover on the swirley boulder

Comments on Rat Fish Dyno Add Comment
Show which comments
By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Dec 3, 2011

I don't really understand why this boulder only gets one star. The rock is good, the holds are cool, the movement is cool... is it just because it outrageously favors the tall that it should get less stars? Ridic. There is nothing that detracts from this bloc.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Dec 3, 2011

It's a hard one-move problem on a boulder with several more famous and aesthetic lines. No surprise to me that it gets no respect.
By tcamillieri
From: Denver
Mar 7, 2012

maybe more famous, but not necessarily more aesthetic.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
May 6, 2016
rating: V11+ 8A

I've spent a lot of time on this thing and although I've hit the lip multiple times I just can't keep my right hand on long enough to control the swing. I recently starting trying this from a jump start and it is way harder than I expected. Grab the R hand starting hold and jump to the lip with your L. Has anyone had any luck with this route from the jump start? If so how the heck do you match the lip on this monster?
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Dec 29, 2016
rating: V11+ 8A

Somehow ended up on the top of this thing. Whether it was luck, skill, or magic I don't know but it was incredible. By far the hardest single move I have ever done. Took me 8 or 9 sessions of effort. Its amazing what you are truly capable of if you set your mind to something. Footage of this climb starts at 1:50.
By Graham O.
Dec 29, 2016

Awesome job, man! Great video, too! Child of the Storm next?

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About