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Rat Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,406
Submitted By: Jim O'Brien on Dec 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Enjoying the Chimney section down low

Open with restrictions - Private Property MORE INFO >>>


The start on on the right wall of a chimney that rises 1/3 of the climb into an off width. the final moves are hands / fingers to the top. A great climb and a good introduction to chimneys.


The route is obvious from the base, find the large chimney, left side of the crag as you face it- rap from tree anchors to decend.
70m helpful- tie knots at the end of your cord if using a 60m


Standard trad rack to 3", no fixed gear but solid trees for an anchor.

Photos of Rat Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the Rat Crack chimney
Looking up the Rat Crack chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: stretchin out on Rat Crack
stretchin out on Rat Crack
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete stayin' alive at the base of Rat Crack.
Pete stayin' alive at the base of Rat Crack.

Comments on Rat Crack Add Comment
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By Eastvillage
From: New York, NY
Jun 30, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Classic Fritz route. Strenuous.
By jackkelly00
From: new hampshire
May 28, 2010

Awesome route. Crack and chimney climbing. Old school 5.7. In my humble opinion one of the best 5.7 leads in CT

Starts as a finger crack then through a bulge. Goes to chimney (almost runout) then to some hand crack.

Gear to 4"
By Kurtz
Sep 24, 2012

Beware the poison ivy vine on climber's right about 15 ft from the top.
By Jim Shippee
Jun 4, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hands down my favorite CT route to date, strenuous and exhilarating. This route has every aspect of climbing, chimney, face, cracks, off with & tons of excitement. Found it to be completely G except one easy section on top. Part of me feels as if I mentally evolved after reaching completing this objective. PTCOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
By Steven Clark
Nov 22, 2016

If this is 110ft how does a 60m rope work? Just wondering since you said tie knots . Seems to me it would be 20ft short before any stretch? Thanks
By Kevin Schibi
Aug 8, 2017

At the top there is an awesome crack in the right corner standing on the ledge. Go in direct off one of the trees just three ft. From the edge and drop down to the ledge four ft down and start building anchor climbers right. Try the splitter crack above the chimney to climbers left. Increases the grade. 5.8 possibly 5.8+

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