REI Community
Sweat Loaf aka Big Dogs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ain't No Puppy T 
Big Dogs on the Prowl T,S 
Big Dogs Variation T,S 
Deodorant T,S 
Gravity's Rainbow T 
Independent Worm Saloon T 
Rat Crack Direct T 
Revocation T 
Skin Tollbooth, The 
Sweatin' to the Oldies T 
Turd Burglar 
Walking on Paper T 
White Shores T,S 
Unsorted Routes:

Rat Crack Direct 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tim Hudgel and Andy Downen, 1999
Page Views: 150
Submitted By: Kevin P on Aug 2, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: The PIB, Poison Ivy Bypass.


Start with the thin crack downhill from White Shores. We started with the new variation, we will call it PIB, (Poison Ivy Bypass). Use every size cam on this route, little stuff to a #3 Camalot. Traverse out of the roof, and clip two, nicely placed bolts. Then fire up the finger crack to the anchors below Gravity's Rainbow. It is way fun and protects well. This may be on the softer side of 11. The crux, at the bolts, is short. The traverse out of the roof was in the mid-10 range.


Standard rack.

Photos of Rat Crack Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux.
BETA PHOTO: At the crux.

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