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Rastaman Roof 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: R. [Rossiter], 1981 (solo)
Page Views: 2,192
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...

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  • Description 

    Refer to the directions to Reggae. This route is a significant variation of Reggae, in that it has 40' of independent climbing, skips the crux of Reggae and gives one of a harder an much different nature.

    After starting up Reggae, and going about 40 or so feet, Reggae starts to get more vertical and difficult. In the attached picture, this is [almost] due right of the climber on Reggae. At this point, move up and right to a right-leaning crack system. A little gear will be possible there, but not a lot, so protect well before you leave the initial dihedral. [The] moves are not difficult until you reach the roof. Move up and right in the crack to head for the apex of the obvious roof above. An eye-of the needle can be threaded by the leader, but this is not your destination.

    Instead, get to the apex of the roof, just left of the left-facing dihedral at its side. Hand-jam out on strenous but solid moves though the roof and over the top of the blocks which form it.

    Go down and right to belay before taking [the] scramble off as for Reggae.


    The protection is reasonable. If approaching from Calypso-to-Reggae, a set of stoppers and a set of cams should do. Crux pro for Rastaman Roof (in the roof) is 2-3" cams.

    Photos of Rastaman Roof Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kat A. pulling over the lip of the Rastaman Roof.
    Kat A. pulling over the lip of the Rastaman Roof.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Kat A. finds the jug over the Rastaman Roof and re...
    Kat A. finds the jug over the Rastaman Roof and re...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb sews it up on the RastaMan Roof variatio...
    Tony Bubb sews it up on the RastaMan Roof variatio...

    Comments on Rastaman Roof Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Jul 16, 2003

    A nice variation to Reggae, a classic in its own right. The pro IS a bit thin from the Reggae dihedral out on the slab, but the climbing is pretty moderate. Do your best to protect your second; the swing would be a bummer there. The pro is great under the roof and it's a very airy and strenous (albeit short) crux!

    A short downclimb gets you to the double bolt rap anchors in an alcove. Two raps on a 60 meter line.
    By Brent Roaten
    From: Anchorage, AK
    Apr 27, 2006
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Linked this route with Boulder Direct yesterday rather than Reggae. Very well protected crux with solid hand jams above the roof.
    By Eric Klammer
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 4, 2014
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Super fun couple of moves, if only it was longer! Seemed too easy to warrant the dreaded 5.9+ grade, but this may be accurate for those with a shorter reach. I was able to grab/jam the crack at the lip, pull up, then latch on to the jug further up and pull over.
    By Ed Krejcik
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Mar 18, 2017
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    I agree with Eric, probably Eldo 5.9, and I'm short. It's really a one move wonder with bomber cams in the crux. Fun one move though. I approached from directly below after rapping down to the ledge after doing Reggae. Basically a walk up till the crux.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 20, 2017

    I think the roof shifted - the crux is now red Camalots and thinner. Seems harder. Maybe I had a high gravity day and too much drag (ran Wind Tower Slab into it for a single 60m pitch), but my partner who leads 5.10-5.11 regularly took a few hangs following... so I think it changed.
    Seems stable though - that massive car-sized rock just settled an inch, I guess.

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