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Rastaman Roof 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: R. [Rossiter], 1981 (solo)
Page Views: 2,106
Submitted By: Tony B on Dec 8, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO: The Southwest face of the Wind Tower, showing the ...

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Description 

Refer to the directions to Reggae. This route is a significant variation of Reggae, in that it has 40' of independent climbing, skips the crux of Reggae and gives one of a harder an much different nature.

After starting up Reggae, and going about 40 or so feet, Reggae starts to get more vertical and difficult. In the attached picture, this is [almost] due right of the climber on Reggae. At this point, move up and right to a right-leaning crack system. A little gear will be possible there, but not a lot, so protect well before you leave the initial dihedral. [The] moves are not difficult until you reach the roof. Move up and right in the crack to head for the apex of the obvious roof above. An eye-of the needle can be threaded by the leader, but this is not your destination.

Instead, get to the apex of the roof, just left of the left-facing dihedral at its side. Hand-jam out on strenous but solid moves though the roof and over the top of the blocks which form it.

Go down and right to belay before taking [the] scramble off as for Reggae.

Protection 

The protection is reasonable. If approaching from Calypso-to-Reggae, a set of stoppers and a set of cams should do. Crux pro for Rastaman Roof (in the roof) is 2-3" cams.


Photos of Rastaman Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kat A. pulling over the lip of the Rastaman Roof.
Kat A. pulling over the lip of the Rastaman Roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kat A. finds the jug over the Rastaman Roof and re...
Kat A. finds the jug over the Rastaman Roof and re...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Bubb sews it up on the RastaMan Roof variatio...
Tony Bubb sews it up on the RastaMan Roof variatio...

Comments on Rastaman Roof Add Comment
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By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jul 16, 2003

A nice variation to Reggae, a classic in its own right. The pro IS a bit thin from the Reggae dihedral out on the slab, but the climbing is pretty moderate. Do your best to protect your second; the swing would be a bummer there. The pro is great under the roof and it's a very airy and strenous (albeit short) crux!

A short downclimb gets you to the double bolt rap anchors in an alcove. Two raps on a 60 meter line.
By Brent Roaten
From: Anchorage, AK
Apr 27, 2006
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Linked this route with Boulder Direct yesterday rather than Reggae. Very well protected crux with solid hand jams above the roof.
By Eric Klammer
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 4, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Super fun couple of moves, if only it was longer! Seemed too easy to warrant the dreaded 5.9+ grade, but this may be accurate for those with a shorter reach. I was able to grab/jam the crack at the lip, pull up, then latch on to the jug further up and pull over.
By Ed Krejcik
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 18, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I agree with Eric, probably Eldo 5.9, and I'm short. It's really a one move wonder with bomber cams in the crux. Fun one move though. I approached from directly below after rapping down to the ledge after doing Reggae. Basically a walk up till the crux.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
3 days ago

I think the roof shifted - the crux is now red camalots and thinner. Seems harder. Maybe I had a high gravity day and too much drag (ran Wind Tower Slab into it for a single 60M pitch), but my partner who leads 5.10-5.11 regularly took a few hangs following... so I think it changed.
Seems stable though - that massive car-sized rock just settled an inch, I guess.

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