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Rastafari 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Matt Westlake on Jun 5, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

A nice diversion from the neighboring routes, Rastafari features a left rising traverse through slightly overhanging quartz cauliflower heads, flakes, and cracks. Good protection for the most part, although there might be a bit of suspect rock - probably not a fun route to fall on since the sharp rock heads wouldn't feel that great to bounce or scrape down.

Regardless, it's a nice secluded line that is a bit pumpy at times even though the rock is quite featured. It's likely possible to continue past the fixed hardware anchor although the difficulty looks like it eases considerably at that point and you'd have to find an alternate way down.

Location 

This is rather tricky to find. Go to the far end of the north end and follow the trail uphill slightly passing Filet of Fish, etc, around the corner on your right side. Continuing on ahead there is a small clearing with some 10' tall boulders (and a chalked up problem) near the back and side. Leave your pack and rack up here.

Scramble up the gully via the left side and go straight back a short distance until you run into a vertical cliff on your left side with some discontinuous cracks/flakes starting head level. Facing this you'll notice a clearing about 40 feet or so to your left around the cliff - this is the landing zone for the rappel from the fixed nuts. Be sure to take in the awesome detached pillar a bit further on.

If you hike past the start you'll see a dead end with a vertical wide crack in the back (likely wet). Might be worth scouting the area a bit anyway...

Protection 

Pro: standard rack to C4 #3, although a #2 might be adequate.

There were two fixed nuts with quick links at the end of the rising traverse - be wary, it might be easy to miss them. Although one nut+link was quite rusty, they both seemed to be slotted fairly well. You would definitely want to back it up for TR and you may want to consider adding to/upgrading the anchor and prepare for an adventure+new anchor if you do miss the stoppers.


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