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YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Eric Chemello
Page Views: 53
Submitted By: Sic Nabo on Jun 21, 2016

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This route is fantastic and deserves more attention. Similar to its neighbor, Whiplash, but with a crux that is both more sustained and higher intensity. Travels through a beautiful bulge of smooth blank limestone that appears to have had giant lemon wedge chunks sliced out of it creating intricate, macro features that one cannot simply downpull.

Start on a pleasant slab and reach a good rest before a small roof pull. Once transitioned onto the vertical face, it is on for the next several bolts. Negotiate small pockets, slopey crimps, and smeary feet while fighting the quickly encroaching pump. A couple of tension-y sequences through undercling crimps above your head will test your worthiness and add to the fatigue. A good undercling is your only respite before the crux sequence, an off-camber power move requiring subtle body english. The bump into the largest lemon wedge is only about 6-inches, but is the hardest move you will pull today. After this, a jug rest and the route joins Bambi Slayer next door. 5.10 has never felt so pumpy.


In the scary gully, just left of Whiplash.


17 Bolts. Gear down low in the easier section is optional. Long slings are nice for down low and for the last couple bolts. The rope drag/weight is real.

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