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East End Wall
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Rusted Rapture T 
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Rusted Rapture 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: JJ Schlick 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: summer, fall
Page Views: 1,522
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Aug 13, 2011

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Corey Ellison finishing up Rusted Rapture, with Se...

Description 

Rusted Rapture is a stunning pitch. From start to finish this varied line serves up everything from bouldery face climbing to splitter cracks, as well as, the classic roof section. Its one of the better basalt pitches around at the grade. Rap down to suspended boulder at 90', fixed belay.

The first 15' of climbing off the belay is fantastic and bouldery, as you follow an arching seem with just enough holds to keep it in the V0 range. Once you start plugging gear in the thin crack, be sure to take advantage of the best placements when you see them. Continue up the thin crack past several boulder problems to a break at mid height. Enjoy the next 35' of twin finger cracks which is like a really featured cousin of Torpedo at the Forks.

Though the roof may look intimidating at first glance, take the time to enjoy it, because with the huge foothold out on the right arete, and the gigantic rail in your hands. The traverse and turning the roof add up to be about 5.9 climbing, and the exposure is heavenly... For a basalt canyon anyway.

Location 

Far climber's left of the East End Wall.

Protection 

Double set from #0 TCU through #.75 Camalot. A #1 Camalot, a #3.5 Camalot (for the very last piece), small/ medium wires. Draws and several long runners.


Photos of Rusted Rapture Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Plugging it in...
Plugging it in...
Rock Climbing Photo: JJ turning the lip of the roof on the FA of Rusted...
JJ turning the lip of the roof on the FA of Rusted...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Rhoads topping out Rapture
Nick Rhoads topping out Rapture
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff G
Jeff G
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
BETA PHOTO: Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: In the middle of some wild climbing for the grade,...
In the middle of some wild climbing for the grade,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into it on the twin cracks.
Getting into it on the twin cracks.
Rock Climbing Photo: The twin cracks section.
The twin cracks section.

Comments on Rusted Rapture Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 7, 2013

Wonderful route with mix of thoughtful and hero climbing!
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 9, 2013
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Felt a touch soft for 10+ but a great pitch nun the less. The end will make you smile!
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 9, 2013

Aye, we did it this morning for our warm up, and I didn't come across any .10+ either. Which almost makes it better...
By Nick Dolhyj 1
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 16, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

definitely my new favorite 10. just so much fun and it all flows really well