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Rapture of the Steep 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Steiger, Rich Thompson, Don Gallagher 1977
Season: late Spring, Summer, early Fall
Page Views: 4,369
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on Jul 4, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Russ W on pitch 1


Follow the great hands to finger crack to a small roof. There are good jams to be found the whole way, but the only true crack moves are the fingerlocks leading to the roof. Great pro the entire way.
Pull the roof (don't fall here), clip a bolt and continue to the anchors. This is a must do for Mt. Lemmon. This climb would be a classic almost anywhere.


Prominent crack right of Swept Away if you are looking up at the face. You can't miss it.


Hand and finger sized cams. A few finger sized nuts will serve you well too. Slings to equalize the very offset anchors at the top of the first pitch.

Photos of Rapture of the Steep Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon moving his way towards the roof crux.
Jon moving his way towards the roof crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: P1
Rock Climbing Photo: TR setup on Rapture of the Steep
TR setup on Rapture of the Steep

Comments on Rapture of the Steep Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 7, 2015
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 4, 2008

This climb has a second pitch that I have never done. It's not much to look at compared to the first.
By scott e. tarrant
From: Fort Collins
Jul 9, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

purely and simply one of the best climbs of my life.
By Daniel Cohn
May 19, 2009

One of the nicest cracks on Lemmon. Great location too. Do most people turn the roof on p1 to the right of the big jug? Thats what I did, but I saw a small fixed nut to the left where the crack turns into a seam.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 19, 2009

I think I stay a bit right turning the roof too but it has been a while since I was there. Did you do Warm & Free up to Rapture. If not, do it next time it makes for a lot of good climbing.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

ditto eric - and also ditto eric on doing warm and free first.
By Andy Bennett
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 2, 2009

Watch out for bats and their excrement in the crux, it gets kinda greasy...

Do the "Warm and Steep" linkup. What a fantastic day!
By Daniel Cohn
Sep 27, 2009

I saw the "nuts in opposition" placement on P2. It is not really required as I could place a micro cam and a #3 camalot in nearly the same spot. Maybe the nuts would work better, I dunno. That old rusted bolt ought to be replaced at some point. P2 is worth doing to avoid the scramble back up the gulley.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 5, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Contrary to some of these comments, I think you are missing out if you don't do the second pitch of this climb. It's steep, exposed, sustained, and spicy, and Neptune is an awesome formation to top out on. I thought it was the headiest pitch of the link-up, and would be really good if it was climbed more and was a little cleaner.
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 7, 2014

"Pull the roof (don't fall here)"

does this mean the move isn't very well protected?
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 8, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

That's what was meant Jon, although there is a sneaky placement for a .75" cam that can offer better protection for the roof. :)
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 7, 2015

is the roof the crux of the first pitch?

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