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Placing gear before the lip. Old photo taken by Ra...
A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors.
Near the right end of Junkyard Wall proper. Immediately right (around corner) from Four Sheets to the Wind. Look for fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral, usually heavily chalked.
Standard rack. Small-med nuts, med cams. Couple long draws or runners (roof). Bolted anchor.
Aaron Top-Roping Rapscallion
Trying to figure out how to pull the roof
BETA PHOTO: Rapscallion's Blues (5.10c)
Aug 5, 2015
Contrary to the description I found the initial, steep finger crack, dihedral to be the crux. 25ft or so without a good rest, placing pro is strenuous here.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Mar 25, 2016
this climb is seriously incredible considering it's a short one. The move after the roof is ridiculous IMO and takes away from the charm.
By Andrew G
Sep 20, 2016
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solid for the grade, takes good gear the whole way except the right trending rail before the first roof. (There may actually be good gear there but if this climb is anywhere near your limit like it was for me, good luck stopping to place it.) Really cool climb though that delivers a punch with each of the 4 cruxes.