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Junkyard Wall
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Ann's Revenge T 
Antropov's Cold T,TR 
Bubba Meets Jesus T,TR 
Cave Routes 1 and 2 TR 
Churning in the Huecos T 
Contortionist, The T 
Distortionist, The T 
Entertainer, The T,TR 
Enteruptus T 
Four Sheets to the Wind T 
Frigidator TR 
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Junk Yard Dog T 
Keep it Tight but Don't Give Me AIDS T,TR 
Lapping the Sap T 
Mr. Ed T 
Mystery Dance T 
New River Gunks T,TR 
New Yosemite T,TR 
Nine Lives T 
Rapscallion's Blues T 
Reachers of Habit S 
Reaching New Heights  T 
Realignment T,TR 
Rhododenema T 
Scott's Turf Builder T 
Stuck In Another Dimension T 
Team Jesus T 
V-Slot T 
Who Knows? T 
Yew Nosemite T 

Rapscallion's Blues 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Doug Reed, Tom Howard (June 1984)
Page Views: 4,563
Submitted By: DaveB on Jun 12, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (87)
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Matt Carozza Feb. '17

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


A great New River dihedral/fingercrack! Sustained climbing with a tough start and challenging finish. Jam, sidepull, stem, and smear to nice ledge/rest. Protect well and follow right-leaning crack (crux 1) to jugs/rest below awkward roof slot. Surmount roof slot (crux 2), move left, then up through 2nd roof slot (crux 3) to ledge. Finish on easier terrain to anchors.


Near the right end of Junkyard Wall proper. Immediately right (around corner) from Four Sheets to the Wind. Look for fingercrack in a right-facing dihedral, usually heavily chalked.


Standard rack. Small-med nuts, med cams. Couple long draws or runners (roof). Bolted anchor.

Photos of Rapscallion's Blues Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Placing gear before the lip. Old photo taken by Ra...
Placing gear before the lip. Old photo taken by Ra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Aaron Top-Roping Rapscallion
Aaron Top-Roping Rapscallion
Rock Climbing Photo: Trying to figure out how to pull the roof
Trying to figure out how to pull the roof
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapscallion's Blues (5.10c)
BETA PHOTO: Rapscallion's Blues (5.10c)

Comments on Rapscallion's Blues Add Comment
Show which comments
By Sawyerdougz
Aug 5, 2015

Contrary to the description I found the initial, steep finger crack, dihedral to be the crux. 25ft or so without a good rest, placing pro is strenuous here.
By Alex Jacques
From: Burlington, CT
Mar 25, 2016

this climb is seriously incredible considering it's a short one. The move after the roof is ridiculous IMO and takes away from the charm.
By Andrew G
From: Silver Spring, MD
Sep 20, 2016
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Solid for the grade, takes good gear the whole way except the right trending rail before the first roof. (There may actually be good gear there but if this climb is anywhere near your limit like it was for me, good luck stopping to place it.) Really cool climb though that delivers a punch with each of the 4 cruxes.
By Kyle vH
Jul 30, 2017

I did this route over a decade ago and loved it, I thought the initial overhanding dihedral wasn't too bad if you get wide stems. The roofs were fun and easy, though the second is awkward. The middle slab was the crux for me. I had to make a quick dynamic deadpoint to a rail, and it was probably my first non-static trad move, I remember it fondly.

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