|Type:||TR, 1 pitch|
|Original:||YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||truello on Mar 13, 2009 with updates from kenr|
|Comments on Rappel Crack||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jeff O'Farrell
From: Chambersburg PA
Jun 13, 2011
Fun climb, you can sew this crack up with chocks!
I think it is an area classic.
From: Lancaster PA
May 18, 2013
|This route is a lot of fun! Lots of places for gear and enough comfortable stances to place it. Excellent climb for new trad leaders.|
May 23, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
location: This route is the obvious crack which starts about 10-15 feet off the ground -- to the right of Yellow Pages (and to the right of Rotary and RC Direct?) -- and to the left of Vision of Stem (and to the left of Unappreciated?)
start: One guidebook suggests starting on Leap of Faith and up diagonally right to join the Crack. Perhaps a little easier (and sufficiently interesting) is to start on Vision of Stem then go left to the bottom of the Crack. Or the
Direct start Variation (5.9) -- Start roughly underneath the Crack (perhaps a bit to its left), and work up through two solution pockets to the left of Vision of Stem start. Interesting sequence.
the Crack: Lots of thoughtful fun moves with a variety of techniques. Pretty sustained in difficulty.
By John Wanner
Oct 3, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|I wouldn't recommend this route to a beginning leader-no matter how you start it, the first 15 feet or so is a bit tricky to read, not trivial and difficult if not impossible to protect adequately. Once you're into the crack, you may be able to sew it up, but this is one of the most physical "5.6's" I've done, so even with good feet, you have to seriously hang on while placing gear. Definitely not for a beginning 5.6-5.7 leader unless s/he's pretty strong. Overall, it's a good route with lots of interesting moves that just keep comin' at you, and well worth doing with an easy set on a TR.|