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Middle Sugarloaf / Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"Center Cliff Rap Line" T 
"Suzy Q" Rap Line from the Top T 
Bullit - P1 Original F.A. Start (5.6-5.7 PG/R)  T 
Bullit - with Alternate Slab Start T 
Life by the Numbers T 
Link-Up: P1 Bolt in the Sky to P3 Life By the Numbers  T 
North (right) End Descent Gully T 
Rapier T 
Rock Candy T 
Saber T 
Saber Rattler  T 
Scepter  T 
Sea of Green  T 
Sea of Green Direct Start T 
Skyline Promenade 5.9 R/X (?) T 
South (Left) Descent Gully T 
Steve's Twilight T 
Suzy Q (Ascent of the middle Rap-line route)  T 
When the Dog Bites  T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Jamie Cunningham & Mike Lee 2011
Page Views: 101
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Nov 23, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: Rapier showing Bolt#1


Originally listed in MP as "Unknown 1 - on Saber Slab" and given 5.8+, "The Notches" lists it as 5.8 which isn't much different. I think I'll leave the 5.8+, more because of the 5.6+ - 5.7 PG-13/R approaching the first bolt.

START- About 10-12 feet right of Saber's "groove", at about the "alternate start" described for Saber. There's a bolt about 12-15 feet up [photo].

See also the photo of "Saber Slab" posted to Scepter.

I'd give the opening moves below the bolt 5.6+ to 5.7 PG-13 / R, so you might want to stick clip the bolt.

P1- Face climb up to the bolt (about 5.7 PG-13/R) then on up the the 4inch horizontal (crux). Continue up the crack and then the slab above (bolt) and a 2nd bolt higher up. Continue to the double bolt anchor on the right. 140-150 ft 5.8/5.8+. The slab above the 4inch ledge is about 5.6+ to 5.7- if you get there from Saber.

DESCENT: Rap with 2 ropes or 25 ft bushwhack back to the North Descent Gully.

Note that it is possible to Top Rope this climb (using 2 ropes!) by bushwhacking the 25 ft into the double-bolt anchor.


On the "Saber Slab" between Saber and the North descent gully.


Std rack - Green (#0.75) Camalot

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