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Rap Rings
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Apr 15, 2012
I am back into climbing again since 2011 after being retired from the sport for 15 yrs.

Back in the 80's the 'general consensus' of what we were taught by our climbing instructors were that rap rings were not to be trusted even as good as their 'ratings' were - and that even multiple slings thru a rap ring could lead to disastrous results should the ring fail.

What is the current consensus on this today?

Would it be better to rap thru multiple slings versus multiple slings with a rap ring?

Prob sound like a stupid question - but we were always taught that the 'safety chain' was only as strong - or weak - as it's links.

From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
95 points
Apr 15, 2012
Welcome back. Same rules as before. Practice redundancy and you will live.
From Flag
Joined Feb 5, 2007
222 points
Apr 15, 2012
Good for you on getting back to climbing.

Unless the ring shows significant wear they are just fine to rappel off of.
Josh Kornish
Joined Sep 16, 2009
830 points
Apr 15, 2012
1 rap ring...bad. 2, through good slings... just fine. I will rap off of 1 good steel quick link, if its connected to 2 pieces or through at least 2 slings. You don't wanna put the rope just through the slings unless you have to - whats it going to do to them (and the next party) when you pull the rope? Leave a biner on the slings and go through that. Curt Nelson
From Fort Collins, CO
Joined Oct 3, 2006
469 points
Apr 15, 2012
Well...there are rap rings, and there are rap rings. I generally will double up if they are the old thin (rolled) aluminum rings, but am fine with the beefier variety (that's not to say I haven't rapped on a single old aluminum just made me nervous). Bottom line though is a personal choice, whatever you feel comfortable with...cuz it's you on the line (no pun intended).

(edited to clarify type of old rap rings I meant)
Robert Cort
Joined Oct 12, 2009
836 points
Apr 15, 2012
modern rings (omega pac, smc) are forged aluminum (not rolled like the old sketchy ones you remember) and are rated to 22kn. They are VERY safe and more than fine to rappel on.

the old rolled ones are usually doubled up in most climbing areas or they've been replaced (or backed up) with quicklinks (also safe).

if you don't trust any of that, leave a locking carabiner- dont rap on just the slings. doing this endangers any parties rappelling after you, as one pull of the rope could severely damage all the slings around a tree, rendering it a death trap for a party not savy enough to check the slings before they weight them.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,461 points
Apr 15, 2012
I have two of the SMC rap rings, they are rated 22kn on the ring and are small enough that a knot won't pass through them (Much small ID than rap rings of Ye Olde times). I've never used them and they have never left the gear box in my garage. If I were building a permanent anchor and needed a ring I'd just use a quick link. Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Joined Jul 23, 2010
185 points
Apr 15, 2012
OK thanks - sounds good. Yes - even 'back then' (my instructors were Don Mellor and Jim Cunningham) taught us that pulling your rope thru the sling(s) will 'burn' and damage them and thus be quite suspect afterward - which is why I wouldn't be keen on doing so.

Thanks...will have to get a few rings to add to my rack, etc.
From New York
Joined Jul 17, 2011
95 points
Apr 15, 2012
I would say consensus is that the cheap rolled rings need to go away every chance we get. Like said, there are better options now. Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
1,039 points
Apr 15, 2012
Gonna have to once again go with a...

From Yucca Valley, CA
Joined Oct 13, 2002
2,550 points
Apr 15, 2012
Locker wrote:
Gonna have to once again go with a... WOW!

the quality of threads here has been in the shitter lately. no shit sherlock to this entire conversation.
Keenan Waeschle
From Bozeman, MT
Joined Feb 8, 2010
232 points
Apr 16, 2012
Mike Lane wrote:
I would say consensus is that the cheap rolled rings need to go away every chance we get. Like said, there are better options now.

Yes, there are better options nowadays but personally I don't agree the rolled ones need to go away. They were actually plenty strong singly (rated to 14kN each) and overkill doubled up. True, wear is more of an issue because they're hollow, but like everything else you have to check it and replace as necessary.
Aric Datesman
Joined Sep 16, 2008
145 points
Apr 16, 2012
Michael Urban wrote:
Always one 'dick' in every crowd. If the 'thread' doesn't suit you jackass plse refrain from posting comments. Others seemed fine with it until you came along...

Non rap ring advice...

Don't get that fired up on the forum...for one its just the internet...and two you're going to burn out pretty fast.
From Indiana
Joined Oct 4, 2010
21 points
Jun 14, 2013
This post has some great timing. I have seen some funny things done with rap rings (and chains for that matter) on the more accessible crags we take our groups climbing. Its my opinion, that it seems that with the increased use of gyms, climbers are less educated and less critical thinking of and about anchor systems.

Where do people stand on top roping on the rap rings or chains? I would like to be clear we don't and I never would. I know the wearing would be increased, and if they are solid aluminum rap rings seem to be rated as strong as a normal carabiner. What are chains rated?
Eric Bonin
Joined Sep 23, 2007
41 points
Jun 14, 2013
Around here (Ontario), and almost every other place I've climbed, you don't tr directly off of any fixed gear. Rig it with your own slings and lockers or draws and tr off that. Joe Palma
From Stouffville, Ontario
Joined Feb 24, 2011
35 points

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