REI Community
Durrance Approach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black-Jones Direct T 
Bowling Alley- aka Durrance approach route T 
Direct Southwest T 
Double-Edged Blade T 
Durrance T 
Fritz's Fantasy S 
interesting problem below, The T 
Late for Dinner T 
Liken Lichen T 
Lovely Liana T 
Manifest Destiny T 
P.O.T.C. T 
Pseudo- Wiessner T 
Rangers Are People Too T 
Sundance T 
Tunnel Vision T 
Wiessner T 

Rangers Are People Too 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 130', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J. Schlinkmann, S. Gardiner, R. Guilmette, '85
Page Views: 2,750
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 5, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Taken June, 2000

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Approach Via the Durrance approach and head left at the cliff base to reach the SW corner. At the SW corner there are a number of shorter columns that reach a height of perhaps 100'.

The dihedral at the right hand edge of the right-most of these columns, beginning as an ever-steepening slab is "Rangers Are People Too." The next crack left of this, on the left side of the right-most short column, is the fist pitch of Direct SouthWest.

P1: (5.10-, 100' (?)Locate the climb as described above and start up the slabby initial section (easy) and into the right-facing crack & corner with thin jams and stems. Climb this to a good ledge with a fixed belay. Although I am not certain a single 60M gets you to the ground, it is close enough to be a mere scramble for sure. The route is not very sustained.


A good set of nuts and cams to 2.5"

Photos of Rangers Are People Too Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Charlie Farrow
Charlie Farrow
Rock Climbing Photo: One fine contribution by the late Jim Schlinkmann....
BETA PHOTO: One fine contribution by the late Jim Schlinkmann....
Rock Climbing Photo: Eastvillage on Rangers Are Pervert's too, my first...
Eastvillage on Rangers Are Pervert's too, my first...
Rock Climbing Photo: I always preferred the "original" name o...
I always preferred the "original" name o...

Comments on Rangers Are People Too Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ryan Minton
May 20, 2003

Are you sure about that rating? I was under the impression that the route was rated at 5.9-, I did it last time I was up at the Tower and it didn't feel like it was a 10- ?
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 9, 2003

The actual name of this route is "Rangers Are Perverts Too".
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 30, 2003

It could be 9-, no arguement from me, but the book said 10a. I swapped the 10a to a 10- becuase I thought it less than 10.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 10, 2003

The poorperson's guide calls this 9-.
By Ryan Minton
Nov 25, 2003

Which guidebook calls it 10a? Maybe the rating applies to the fact that it seems a bit sustained towards the top? Good route no matter what...
By Cameron Luth
Apr 16, 2007

This climb is super fantastic. One of my favs on the tower. A really good lead I think.
By Alex A
Sep 22, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Fun climb, good gear, No way is this 5.10, easy 5.9-, at Devils Lake it would be 5.8, my guide book from 1986 calls it 5.9-
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
May 10, 2016

The route length is more like 120 feet. You can rappel with a 60 and some 5.easy down climbing.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About