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Ranger Ron 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Strassman, Carroll, Curtis, & Kates
Page Views: 3,150
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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"Ranger Ron". Photo by Blitzo.


Awesome, high angle face climbing on edges. Sustained, exposed, and well-protected...what more could you ask for?

There is a slabby crux around the 10th bolt (maybe 5.8). Otherwise the route is sustained 5.7 with a variety of different cruxes.


Start in a flaired crack/gully that goes up and right. Step up and left onto the face and climb through two small overhangs. The upper part of the route climbs just left of an obvious, pale water streak. See photo


14 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rappel chains.

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By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 24, 2008

Nearly every bolt on this route was under drilled. As such, many of the 3/8" Rawls protrude from their holes and have space between the hanger and the rock (up to 1/8").
By Bruce Willey
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 28, 2008

Yeah the bolt job is pretty shoddy. Lots of spinners add to the spice. And sometimes the bolts don't seem in the right place making the route finding important. Otherwise a fine route. Though I was climbing with one arm I'd still say drop the + in the 7 and just go ahead and call it a 5.8.
By Dave Daly
From: Kernville, CA
May 14, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Hmmmm...with the likes of Marty Lewis and Raliegh Collins rating this climb at 5.8, I'll add to that concensus. If you're uncertain on the overall feel of the route, then try the direct start instead of going up the ramp to the right. Harder than 5.8 from that point.
By liveit P
From: Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Feb 27, 2012

Not as good as I expected, seemed a bit hard for 5.8. It was also cold and windy, Belaying at the top was freezing, and the wind swung our ropes all over the place.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
May 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very enjoyable climbing with minor crux 3/4 way up the wall. Didn't seem particularly more/less difficult than the same area of Pangborn. Similar climbing, perhaps even appearing slightly more difficult than Pangborn as its more sustained.

Mussy hook anchors. Requires 2 ropes, see comments on other routes for two leader rope trick.
By NeilSutherlandME
Jul 30, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Felt like 5.8 to me. My short arms had a tough (and scary) time reaching the bolt after shimmy-ing up the ramp, especially with the last bolt ~10' down (felt like 20'). After that, I felt it was moderately run out (10-15' spacing) and was a mental battle for me. As mentioned, route finding became an issue up near bolts 8 (or 9 or 10).
By Will H.
Mar 24, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Only saw one iffy bolt, the rest seemed solid for what it's worth.
By BAd
Jun 13, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just did this again today. We've always found the original start kind of awkward and weird and not especially enjoyable. A better option is to clip the first two bolts on Pangborn--long sling on the 2nd--then traverse a little to pick up the Ranger line. Put a long sling on the first bolt you encounter--a little easy run-out up the corner--then pull up onto the big ramp below the overlap. Gun for the top. So fun.

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