REI Community
Crater Crag of North Quarry
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crater Cat TR 
Debhedral TR 
Doug's Variation T,S 
Fragile X TR 
Gig, The S 
Golden Arete S 
Misty S 
Mountain Lion S 
Rancid S 
Sending Choss TR 
Sweet T 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Deaun Schovajsa/Dave Gottenborg, 1994?
New Route: Yes
Season: winter/spring/summer/fall
Page Views: 869
Submitted By: bhoran on Apr 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Around the 5th bolt.


This involves thin, face climbing.


This route is pictured and described in old Hubbel guide and described in new Haas guide and is actually located on the left side of Crater Crag/North Quarry Area's east-facing wall, and the Misty route and all, on the east face, nice shade in the afternoon during winter months. In Jason's guide he says it is 60 feet right of Cracking Up, but it is actually on the opposite, east side of the wall from the latter route. It is an easy mistake to make.


5 bolts/ no anchors up top/old pipe in rock summit.

Photos of Rancid Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route sends the middle of the east face via 5 ...
The route sends the middle of the east face via 5 ...

Comments on Rancid Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Haas
Apr 11, 2009

Bob, thanks for the correction. That is an easy mistake to make. There is in fact a bolted route 60ft right of Crackin' Up and it goes at about the same grade as this line. I emailed Deaun about it while we were working on the book and based on his email, it seemed like I got it right, but thanks again for the correct info. At the time, I looked into the true quarry and didn't see any bolts, but I guess I didn't inspect it close enough. Great contributions!
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 29, 2011

Watch for a bit of loose rock on this climb. There is a left finish that goes ~5.8. #4 & #5 BD wires and a #0.75 Camalot can make this feel well-protected, except for the very start. 48" slings or longer are useful for the top. Also, a #0.5 Camalot can backup the pipe.

Addendum: staying just left of the crack at the finish allows you to get some nice stems and make it a mellower finish. Thanks for the beta, Dave!

Rock Climbing Photo: The middle finish, 6/22/11.
The middle finish, 6/22/11.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About