|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 55'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Deaun Schovajsa/Dave Gottenborg, 1994?|
|Submitted By:||bhoran on Apr 1, 2009|
|Comments on Rancid||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jason Haas
Apr 11, 2009
|Bob, thanks for the correction. That is an easy mistake to make. There is in fact a bolted route 60ft right of Crackin' Up and it goes at about the same grade as this line. I emailed Deaun about it while we were working on the book and based on his email, it seemed like I got it right, but thanks again for the correct info. At the time, I looked into the true quarry and didn't see any bolts, but I guess I didn't inspect it close enough. Great contributions!|
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Apr 29, 2011
Watch for a bit of loose rock on this climb. There is a left finish that goes ~5.8. #4 & #5 BD wires and a #0.75 Camalot can make this feel well-protected, except for the very start. 48" slings or longer are useful for the top. Also, a #0.5 Camalot can backup the pipe.
Addendum: staying just left of the crack at the finish allows you to get some nice stems and make it a mellower finish. Thanks for the beta, Dave!