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Rancid Meat 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kristofer Fiore, Marissa Gorman, Russell Frisch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 499
Submitted By: KrisFiore on Jun 11, 2015

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Enjoying the sweet moves at the top on the first a...

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  • Description 

    A bit of a hidden gem that sat right above popular climbs for decades. A short crux section and a fantastic upper half of easy exposed climbing. Reliably dry, even if Fresh Meat and Paradox are wet.

    Work up and right with delicate foot work to a high first bolt with a great clipping hold. Bite down on crimps through the overhang to make a long move to a good sidepull. A few more moves leads to a good stance below the crux. Pull through the crux with a great deadpoint and pull up with power to reach better holds above. Trend left to the arete and enjoy the sweet exposure and cool holds on 5.8 terrain. Ends at a nice ledge with chains and blueberries if the season is right!

    Location 

    While not actually on the hidden ledge proper, it's the best place for it using the MP sections.

    Locate this climb by traversing right from Hidden Ledge through the brush or by climbing Fresh Meat/Paradox and traversing left.

    Belay from bolts 15 feet left from the top of Fresh Meat.

    Starts 10 feet left of the anchors on big quartz jugs. Clip the anchor as your first piece or place an optional #1 low if it feels better.

    Protection 

    8 glue-in bolts plus chains at the top. The last 20 feet are a bit runout as the climbing is much easier. A medium/large cam is helpful for keeping the rope path in check before the first bolt though unnecessary for protection.

    NOTE: There are three glue-in bolts at the anchor. The leftmost (without chains) bent during installation and could not be fully hammered in. I used it to rap/toprope on the first day so I believe it to be plenty strong enough but since it's not 100% legit I went back and added a proper second bolt for beefy 13mm anchors. I didn't see a reason to rip it out but if anyone really wants it gone I can remove it.


    Photos of Rancid Meat Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: FA of Rancid Meat.  Photo by Russell Frisch.
    FA of Rancid Meat. Photo by Russell Frisch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping after sticking the crux deadpoint on the ...
    Clipping after sticking the crux deadpoint on the ...

    Comments on Rancid Meat Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Derek Doucet
    Jul 13, 2015

    A fun pitch that will get better with some traffic to clean it up, as it's currently pretty dirty, especially on the easier upper arête section. Like all new Bolton routes, it's still shedding holds as well. A helmet for the belayer at least seems like a very good idea.

    I don't recommend belaying from the bolted anchor just right of the base of the route. Doing so sets up a potentially problematic tripping hazard with the rope should you pop getting to the second bolt. If you caught your leg behind the rope in a fall before clipping (fairly likely due to the placement of the first bolt relative to the anchor), it could be ugly. If you do belay from that anchor, this hazard could be reduced by placing a hands / tight hands size piece before the first bolt. It's not really necessary as pro, but it will keep the rope away from your leg. Just be sure you put it in solid rock and not in the obvious and very hollow giant flake at the base. Any way you slice it, don't blow the second clip.

    Finally, the top anchor needs some love. The chains are currently connected to the bolts with non-locking carabiners with the gates taped shut. It's not a problem really, but it seems odd to have gone to the time and trouble of installing the route (with glue-ins no less!) and then leave the anchor in that state.

    .10b or c and 1 star seems fair, maybe another star once it cleans up. Definitely worth doing as a second pitch to Paradox of Fresh Meat. There's currently some tasty blueberries on the top belay ledge as well...
    By KrisFiore
    Administrator
    From: Burlington, Vermont
    Jul 15, 2015

    Hey Derek,

    Thanks for the feedback. Admittedly, the climb did unfold in unorthodox fashion.

    We cleaned, bolted, and sent it all in a day since I was headed out of town the following day for the summer and after the 13-hour day we just didn't have it left in the tank to do any more scrubbing. When I get back in town I'll put some more work into it and switch the biners now that I have the equipment.

    What would you think of adding proper belay bolts at the true bottom? Those anchors were already there so we just used them, not knowing if the pitch would warrant it's own anchors and thinking of the fact that there are already 3 anchors in close proximity to each other on that ledge? I'd be willing to if people would find it safer/more convenient.

    Cheers!
    By Derek Doucet
    Jul 16, 2015

    Hi Chris. Thanks for another cool route! I'm so psyched someone else is so psyched to do route development!

    I guess I could go either way on adding an additional anchor. My inclination is that it's probably best to just belay from the existing one and place a piece to keep the rope out from behind the leader's leg. My reasoning is that if you go much farther left, you're standing in a really cool and probably quite fragile little moss and sapling garden on the ledge. It would be a shame to trample it, since it's pretty pristine at the moment.

    My comments about the route being dirty weren't intended as criticism, by the way. That's the way it goes with new routes sometimes, and I'm sure it will clean up in time.

    In any case, thanks again. I thought it was a nice addition to the cliff in its own right, and especially as a second pitch to the other lower tier routes.
    By KrisFiore
    Administrator
    From: Burlington, Vermont
    Jul 20, 2015

    No offense taken at all. I had to scoot out and I know Upper West deserves good work. I'll be back to add some quick links soon enough.

    I'll make the note about the cam more prominent in the route description.

    Enjoy Vermont for me while I'm gone!