Rancher Rock Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: Rancher Rock Topo Current as of 11/2/2010
This is perhaps the most accessable formation in the Sweetwater Rocks. It is quite obvious east of Agate Flat Road at the turn off at the second cattle grate past the Sweetwater River, where you start into Hampi Boulders and the north side of Lankin Dome.
Most people have blown it off as a choss pile, but Ed and Mark and I have established seven very nice routes to date. You have to see it in the right light to appreciate it.
Route 1 on the topo goes to the top and you have to do a long walk off to the SE to a talus gulley. We found a couple of fixed pins on our ascent of this, so perhaps NOLS was here before. Routes 2,3,4,7 need only one 60m rope. There are Fixx ring anchors at 30m on these routes. On Route 4 (Mad Knowledge of Self), the second pitch goes to the rim where there is a Fixx ring anchor set. Again, this is a 30m pitch. Route 5 and 6 are 60m long, end at a Fixx anchor set and need 2-60m ropes to rappel the routes.
Routes 2,3 4, and 7 are especially high quality for movement and great rock. Plan on bringing a rack to this place, because placements are needed, even on the routes with bolts. This is a great little place to climb, wonderful views of the Winds and the desert, easily accessable. Ed and I originally came here one spring when we were chased out of Moonstone by ol' Rancher Dan, who had the grazing lease. Not wanting to go back to town empty handed, we went to this place and established Rancher Avoidance Procedure. Cool place, dig it.
Turn north off the highway east of Jeffrey City onto Agate Flat Road. Drive to the second cattlegrate past the bridge over the Sweetwater River. Immediately turn right and follow a sandy road along the fence line. Where the main road turns left, continue along the fence line on a fainter track going straight to the rock above. Park behind a boulder just below the rock. To approach routes 1,2,3,4, and 7, walk up to some slabs right of a brushy gulley, scramble a bit up to a long ramp leading right. This puts you on a nice bench below the center of the face, above which is route 1 on the topo. Scrambling up and right a bit brings you to a cool alcove behind a large tree where route 2,3,4, and 7 on the topo are found. To get to routes 5 and 6, cross the fence by the car and walk up a faint ridge paralleling the face until you get to a little meadow below a slabby area. Scramble up ledges for 50 feet or so to a bench. Routes 5 and 6 are above.
Climbing Season For the All Locations area.
Weather station 5.6 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Rancher Rock
Aqua Sucre 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Wyoming
: Sweetwater Rocks
: Rancher Rock
This the the left hand route of the two here, the other being Rancher Avoidance Procedure. A thin start leads into the 60m trough. Follow the bolts to a 2 bolt Fixx anchor belay on a cool ledge under the overhang/cave. This is a low angle face and friction route, fun to take beginners up. Rappel the route...you need two-60m ropes to rappel....[more] Browse More Classics in Wyoming
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Sep 6, 2016
After aborting our Lankin Dome mission due to weather concerns, I thought exploring this rock might be an option since we we're camped near by. Looking at the other sweetwater options on MP, I was surprised and happy to find it listed. Even without the topo/pics (which never seem to download?!), the description was complete enough to find and enjoy the sweet routes there - thanks!