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Ramsey's Shenanigans 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ann Ramsey Ed Wright
Page Views: 1,487
Submitted By: gblauer on Nov 20, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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The opening moves on the last Pitch. Move out on ...

Description 

This is a new climb on the Wonder Wall. It's just left of Evil Shenanigans and has a nameplate at it's base. Three pitches of really fun climbing. P3 is the climb on the far left of the ledge, don't go up the climb on the righ, it's the third pitch of Evil (10d). P3 is one of the best pitches I have done in the park. Giant jugs matched by superb exposure. This is a fine climb.

Location 

Nameplate at the base of the climb, just left of Evil Shenanigans.

Protection 

bolts, rap.


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By Andrew Mayer
From: Driggs, ID
Dec 24, 2014

Great route! definitely not 300 ft. pitches are about 80ft each so 240 total. pitch 2 felt the toughest (9+) and pitch 3 is the money pitch.
By Sherie Lou
From: Washington, DC
Feb 6, 2016

AWESOME EXPOSURE! P3 is the money pitch. Belay stance is kind of uncomfortable with the sharp rock and narrowness of the "pillar."
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 4, 2016

Final 3rd pitch is easily skipped in lue of P3 of Evil Shenanigans. The combo of Ramsey with Evil finish is worth repeating.

The large ledge before the final pitches (choose your finale) can easily accommodates pulling the rope and finishing both pitches giving you a bonus 4th pitch. Perhaps that's Super Shenanigans?? Both members of your team psyched to lead Evil?? That works too.

Notables:
Ramsey's rope pull isn't as clean as Evil.
Ramsey > Evil anchors are about 17" apart so if you're concerned about leading the Evil finish... just bump your anchor to the right and TR from top of P2 ledge.
By Josiah Cooper
From: Lenexa, KS
Dec 13, 2016

So Ramsey's basically doesn't exist any more! Bolts have been chopped so you're basically climbing the first pitch of Ramsey and then the next 2 pitches are on Evil Shenanigans. Still great climbing, but if you're expecting some 5.9+, be prepared for a sweet surprise; this route has its own set of shenanigans!!

Speaking of shenanigans, if you want to top out the high point over the last belay, there's a sweet little seat up there and a double length sling can add some peace of mind around the rock at the top. Extend a long tether (clove hitch on a biner in the single bolt) and run up to the top for 360 views of the canyon!
By Jon Jones
From: Penticton, B.C.
Feb 5, 2017

The chopped bolts on the first two pitches of Ramsey's have been replaced and it looks like a start on the top (3rd) pitch has been made (last 3 bolts have been replaced). The crux of pitch 1 feels more like 10a by Potrero standards.
By Idaho Bob
From: McCall, ID
Feb 26, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This is now a 2 pitch climb. The third pitch has been chopped.

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