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California
> San Diego County
> S San Diego County
> El Cajon Mountain
> Wedge
> Left Wall
Rampage
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 5
votes
Routes in Left Wall
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Cause for Pause S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crystalean P1 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Longing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Leonids S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mañana S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Meteor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Burritos P1 T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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No Burritos, P2 T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Parallel Universe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rampage T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Snakes In The Grass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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So Yesterday T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed Route 16 T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Urge to Merge S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,721 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | bspiewak on Nov 5, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Advisory
Details
Please avoid raptor nests. El Cajon Mountain- Golden Eagles nested successfully at this site in 2009, after relocating twice between alternate nest sites. The Golden Eagle nest at El Cajon Mountain was not successful in Spring 2010. This nest was successful and fledged young in 2011 - 2021. Details from USFS posted here: fs.usda.gov/detail/clevelan…
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
The El Cajon Mountain climbing area is in close proximity to the San Diego River Park Foundation property. This property's purpose is to protect and conserve San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife in perpetuity. Specifically, the San Diego River Park Foundation are protecting golden eagles that nest in the area and ceanothus, a California lilac that is an endemic sensitive plant species. Please avoid and limit recreational activities at the San Diego River Park Foundation property to promote San Diego's threatened habitat and wildlife. Thank you!
Description
The intention of the first ascentionist is uncertain, as the high quality second half of the route lay hidden in obscurity under the dirt and grass of the first half of the route. With some recent excavation, a bit more cleaning, and some rain, the starting crack system will clean up well enough for the purpose it serves.
The route serves as a great way to start at the (lower) Left Wall and climb through to routes on the Blue Sky Wall, especially Buffalo Brothers, Closer to the Sun, The Space Between, and the 5.8 upper pitch of Cause for Pause.
The left most line on the lower "Left Wall".
To the right of the large, broken, right facing corner, the start is identified by the hand crack rising out of the dirty wide crack off the ground.
Pitch 1. Single cams, 1/2" to 3". 70' Bolted anchor/rap. When the dirty crack system ends at the start of the cleaner wall, about 50' up, step left past the crux to transfer into a left trending crack that will deposit you at the anchor bolts 30' higher.
You can also climb the first four bolts of Left Longing (the first line of bolts to the right of the start) at the same grade and avoid the starting crack, although you'll still want .6"-1.5" cams to protect the crux.
Pitch 2. Bolts. 120'. Nice face climbing following the bolts joins you into the last two bolts of the Ramp.
Either stop here, or continue up the 3rd class slab another 30' to another bolted anchor/rap station, the start of Buffalo Brothers
If you want to rappel from the Ramp anchor, keep in mind it's about 120' back to the Rampage anchor/rap. You will need to look to rappellers right and use the 140' rap anchor of Left Longing, and rappel once more to the ground.
It is also possible to rappel from the Buffalo Brothers belay anchor 90' to the Left Longing anchor that is 140' off the ground.
The route serves as a great way to start at the (lower) Left Wall and climb through to routes on the Blue Sky Wall, especially Buffalo Brothers, Closer to the Sun, The Space Between, and the 5.8 upper pitch of Cause for Pause.
The left most line on the lower "Left Wall".
To the right of the large, broken, right facing corner, the start is identified by the hand crack rising out of the dirty wide crack off the ground.
Pitch 1. Single cams, 1/2" to 3". 70' Bolted anchor/rap. When the dirty crack system ends at the start of the cleaner wall, about 50' up, step left past the crux to transfer into a left trending crack that will deposit you at the anchor bolts 30' higher.
You can also climb the first four bolts of Left Longing (the first line of bolts to the right of the start) at the same grade and avoid the starting crack, although you'll still want .6"-1.5" cams to protect the crux.
Pitch 2. Bolts. 120'. Nice face climbing following the bolts joins you into the last two bolts of the Ramp.
Either stop here, or continue up the 3rd class slab another 30' to another bolted anchor/rap station, the start of Buffalo Brothers
If you want to rappel from the Ramp anchor, keep in mind it's about 120' back to the Rampage anchor/rap. You will need to look to rappellers right and use the 140' rap anchor of Left Longing, and rappel once more to the ground.
It is also possible to rappel from the Buffalo Brothers belay anchor 90' to the Left Longing anchor that is 140' off the ground.
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