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3. The Big Wall
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Nevermind The Bollocks T 
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Rampage 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Tom Zimmerman
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: chinos on Sep 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Rampage is a variation finish to Locals Only. It climbs direct out the large roof at the top of the cliff making for excellent exposure and views.

Climb Locals Only to the final bolt under the roof. Continue straight up under the roof and gain a horizontal and make a long clip to the fixed chain on the lip of the roof. Fire out the roof on big holds and finish at the Locals Only anchor.

Location 

Locals Only, Central Wall

Protection 

standard rack to 2", bolts, bolt anchor


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By John Gassel
From: Boston, MA
Oct 1, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This felt really sandbagged for the guidebook grade of 5.10b!

I tried hard to find a way to do this statically but couldn't manage (I'm 5'11"). Ended up doing an all points off dyno and locking off with one hand. Crazy! The mantle is just has hard as the roof.

I wouldn't hesitate to call this 5.11, even by NH trad grades. But the chain is right there, so don't hesitate to get on this and give it a go. It feels sporty.
By Jason Denver
Apr 11, 2015

I can't exactly remember the moves, but maybe a heel-toe cam under the roof to reach out statically? I don't remember myself or my shorter follower having to dyno. The hardest thing seemed to be finding the best holds over the top for your hands and your feet having nothing to step on while you pull over the roof itself. I agree John, harder than .10b should feel. It's burly.

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