Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley) Rock Climbing
POWERLINEZ, beautiful May day.
Opened officially for climbing in May of 2013 thanks to the members of the Torne Valley Climbers' Coalition, the Powerlinez is the first climbing area open in Harriman State Park. The Powerlinez is located on the SE side of the Torne Mountain in Ramapo, NY, with parking access on Torne Valley Road. The trailhead is located 100 yards up the road on Torne Brook Road.
White Diamond trail markers will get you around most of the area. If you cannot see any tape or blazes on trees, please use the most established path you can find. Access is still sensitive here and we want to be able to keep this open. Please do not create any new trails. A couple popular bouldering areas have become devoid of leaves and lead to soil compaction. Please be aware of this and do your best to rake leaves back onto the area where you just climbed!
The rock is characterized as sharp and gritty gneiss. Many of the holds can be sharp as razors, so be sure to tape up for any crack climbs. The top outs are notoriously heart-pounding and heady. Always packed with slopers that just don't feel confident, toping out is a head game at the Powerlinez.
Much of the area's less popular walls are either short rope walls or high-ball boulder problems. Pick your poison.
Bolting is illegal at the Powerlinez. To set up top ropes you will benefit from a long static line and using trees. Some tops of the walls provide cracks for gear anchors, but they are not usually ideal. Stick to your static rope. The Good Book Wall is the only section with sport climbs and currently contains only two bolted anchors. If something doesn't have fixed gear and isn't blank - it can probably be led on trad gear.
There are a couple rap stations at the Powerlinez, mostly on the Tower Wall and Three Bears Wall. Please carefully inspect any sling salads before trusting them - their age can be questionable. As development increases, the safety of these rap stations will also increase, but just like any climbing venture, proper inspection is just a good habit to get into.
BEFORE YOU GO: A waiver is required, but no payment is necessary. Please be sure you fill out a yearly waiver that is available at The Gravity Vault Indoor Rock Gyms or Rock and Snow.
WHILE YOURE THERE: Since the area is still under development, only the most popular walls and climbs are added to mountain project. The rest can be found in the old guidebook available at local climbing gyms, or in the guidebook app (available through rakkup), with updates being made consistently. All First Ascents and beta is being posted in the Facebook Group "Powerlinez - Beta Shed".
FIRST ASCENTS AND DEVELOPMENT: Some new routes and problems are still going through the Facebook Group 'The Powerlinez Beta Shed'. But nowadays most of the new roped-climbing routes are appearing first on MountainProject, and many new boulder problems are on the Rakkup phone app.
Any question, please direct to the Powerlinez Beta Shed FB group! In the mean time, get your waiver signed, be safe and have fun! Let's take advantage of this awesome area close to home and preserve the area as it's meant to be!
The Powerlinez Access Path
Intersection of Torne Brook/Torne Valley Rd, Ramapo NY.
Driving from New York City or New Jersey or PA: Go to the giant interchange of routes NY Thruway 87, 287, and 17 near Suffern NY. Exit onto rt 17 North, which immediately goes into a traffic light. Turn sharp Right on rt 59 South for about 0.5 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.
Driving from NY state coming from the North: NY Thruway (I-87) south to exit 15A for rt 17 North + rt 59, Sloatsburg + Suffern. Exit to the right, go 0.1 mile curving right to reach a T intersection. Turn Right (NorthEast) and go about 0.2 mile to another T intersection. Turn Right (South) and go about 0.4 mile. Just after curving left, up and over railroad tracks, turn sharp Left onto Torne Valley Rd (Rockland County rt 95) and go about 1 mile generally North with some curves, past the recreational center.
Park by some 10-15 ft wide wire fence enclosures (sometimes called "the vents") and a green manhole cover, on the left (west) side of the road --
GPS latitude longitude approx (N41.1415 W74.1618)
This is about 100 yards before (south from) the left turn for Torne Brook Rd. If you reach the entrance for the waste management facility on the right, you've gone too far.
Walking - From the parking, walk North 100 yards on Torne Valley Rd. Turn left (West) on Torne Brook Rd and walk 50 yards across new bridge over creek. Turn right (North) onto dirt road uphill.
Weather station 1.9 miles from here
373 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',202],['2 Stars',113],['1 Star',34],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley):
Featured Route For Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)
Ruby Ray Mystery 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
: Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Va...
: ... : Adventure Stories
Lots of fun + thoughtful moves much on big holds. Even more if add Variation 1 from same (or nearby) top anchor (but need protection against dangerous side-swing if climber falls on that)Up the chimney over the chockstones and/or big moves on good holds on the steep wall on the side of the chimney.. . Variation 1 fun interesting: Start left in the big deep alcove, up a little, then hand-traverse R into chimney. (5.7+) (need protection directional)Up the corner and crack. Finish straight over roo...[more] Browse More Classics in NY
BETA PHOTO: History of Flight Boulder
Kevin climbing The Fuzz 5.9- (I believe)
Sun setting behind the iconic buzzing powerlinez n...
electric power towers with Tower Wall beyond - Whe...
|Comments on Ramapo Powerlinez (Torne Valley)
By Elan Trybuch
Jun 17, 2013
Trad climbing. 4-5 bolted routes for sport. Ample anchors set up with new slings and wrap rings. Climb responsibly, check, and double check all equipment, anchor and belay stations.
By David S
Sep 30, 2013
Is someone able to direct me to this rough guidebook?
From: North Jersey
Oct 12, 2013
Guidebooks are available at The Gravity Vault in Upper Saddle River, NJ which is on the way to the powerlinez as you're coming up from the south.
Rock and Snow, NJ Rock Gym and some other outdoor retailers may carry them as well.
Many Gravity Vault employees are pretty well versed on the Powerlinez, so please call with any questions. We are all stewards of this new area and would love to see it open for many years to come!
From: Asbury Park, NJ
May 30, 2014
Any chance any of you USR Gravity Vault employees can send a few guidebooks down to the Middletown GV? Same goes for the waivers that we're supposed to sign?
By Kimberley Rothacker
From: Cliffwood Beach, New Jersey
Oct 12, 2014
posted it in the forum but i want to make sure this gets out. My boyfriend found a pair of LaSportivas at the bottom of the three bears walls. If you can tell us the size/color/model we will figure out a way to get them back to their owner.
By David S
Oct 20, 2014
Was climbing at Little Bear/Papa Bear this Sunday March 19th and found a mismatched (seems a half/whole size different) pair of climbing shoes. Two different brands/shoes. One of the lasts on one seem to be separating so not sure if they were left there intentionally. Let me know if you left them. Providing the type of each shoe will do and they're yours. PM me.