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Ralph's Dilemma 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ralph Menikoff
Page Views: 1,625
Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Roger Rumsey (blue, left) on Ralph's Dilemma (Mark...

Description 

Stem up the aesthetic open book under the big roof. RPs or other tiny nuts are helpful gear in sections. Just before you reach the roof, the crack widens to hand-size.

Originally, at the roof, one would make a huge stem to the right with your own gear placements under the roof; turn the corner and a move later reach the anchors shared with Flesh-Eating Gnats. Now, many climbers just stop at the roof, clipping the anchors for Pathogenic Cysts to the right, or Ralph's Leisure Suit to the left. Doing this is advantageous in that one can more easily clean his or her gear while lowering, but the disadvantage is being shortchanged as you miss out on the fun roof traverse, which might be the crux of the complete route.

Location 

The obvious open book under the big roof (to the right of Leisure Suit and Polyester Terror; to the left of Flesh Eating Gnats)

Protection 

Nuts and cams to 2". Those wanting to really sew it up will want RPs and TCUs.

Use the 2-bolt anchor for Flesh-Eating Gnats, or the 2-bolt anchor below the roof for Pathogenic Cysts.


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Rock Climbing Photo: Tigger overly scared on this classic. No, its not ...
Tigger overly scared on this classic. No, its not ...

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By Jesse Punsal 1
Nov 30, 2013

To get the full route experience: place a solid .75 above the first bolts and climb to the anchors on Flesh-Eating Gnats, then downclimb and clip the bolts under the roof for easy cleaning. Gear is tiny but good.