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BETA PHOTO: Roger Rumsey (blue, left) on Ralph's Dilemma (Mark...
Stem up the aesthetic open book under the big roof. RPs or other tiny nuts are helpful gear in sections. Just before you reach the roof, the crack widens to hand-size.
Originally, at the roof, one would make a huge stem to the right with your own gear placements under the roof; turn the corner and a move later reach the anchors shared with Flesh-Eating Gnats
. Now, many climbers just stop at the roof, clipping the anchors for Pathogenic Cysts
to the right, or Ralph's Leisure Suit
to the left. Doing this is advantageous in that one can more easily clean his or her gear while lowering, but the disadvantage is being shortchanged as you miss out on the fun roof traverse, which might be the crux of the complete route.
Nuts and cams to 2". Those wanting to really sew it up will want RPs and TCUs.
Use the 2-bolt anchor for Flesh-Eating Gnats, or the 2-bolt anchor below the roof for Pathogenic Cysts.
Tigger overly scared on this classic. No, its not ...
By Jesse Punsal 1
Nov 30, 2013
To get the full route experience: place a solid .75 above the first bolts and climb to the anchors on Flesh-Eating Gnats, then downclimb and clip the bolts under the roof for easy cleaning. Gear is tiny but good.