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Rainy Day 12A 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kurt Smith and Mike Pont, 1990
Page Views: 154
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Ted onsights Rainy Day 12A on a rainy day.

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Who would imagine that the authors of the Clear Creek Classic, Sonic Youth, would stuff a tiny little line in here? Why not? Even The General needs to climb in the rain.

A crimpy start and a clip from the ground will get you into the dihedral and polish the crux. Chase the corner for a few more clips; pop up over the block above the dihedral to clip the anchors. Pretty cool over all, and a lot of pump delivered in 35 feet. Good edge training for the fingers. The Rainy Day anchor will allow you to top rope the 5.13 which is a lot trickier than it looks as well.


Rainy Day 12A starts in the middle of the overhang, third route from the right and adjacent to an amazingly powerful 5.13 on its left.


QDs only. This 35 foot route needs 4-5 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Oct 2, 2001

A great little pump. This route is short and a little harder than it may first appear. The moves are very continuous and the clips are commiting. A ncie sequence of moves leading up the thin corner. The start is varied and can be made easier by traversing in from the left. But start straight up and keep cranking for a good pump.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt. If you blow it, you may kiss the ground. Blecchhh. Good value for a short route.
By chris deulen
From: Castle Rock
Aug 13, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I found I had to campus to a crimp after squeezing through the dihedral section.
By Luke Evans
Sep 7, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route is Kinda Burly for how short it is! The top is a little Chossy and looks like a Block could GO if you grab the wrong one! Be Cautious!
By Erik Durgin
Sep 14, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Short but sweet, this climb is fun and pumpy with some cool kneebaring half way up. Stick clipping a long draw on the second bolt can help.
By chipacles
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Fun route with some hard moves at the second bolt.

If you move to the jug above the second bolt before clipping that bolt, you should be ok to clip from a safe position. The danger, as I see it, comes from clipping it from the precarious position inside the dihedral. Just wait to make the jug: if you fall going for it, I don't think you'd hit the'd be close, but I doubt you'd deck (unless you have a 10 year old belaying you).
By slim
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is about 2 letter grades harder if the draws aren't pre hung. Climbing this good/interesting deserves a lot better bolting job. If the 2nd and 3rd bolts were both moved about 2 feet lower, the route would flow a lot better and also be better protected. I've done this route several times, and now I just frig up to get the draws hung and then come back down and do it.
By monkeyvanya
From: Denver, CO
Aug 30, 2011

Fun, a bit spicy.
Didn't find any crimps at the start, but a dyno to a jug below first bolt worked nice.
I agree with the idea of clipping second bolt from a good jug. I also clipped first bolt with a single biner to save couple inches.
By slim
Aug 31, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yeah, I forgot to comment about the "crimps(?)" at the start. Good jugs actually. Are you tall or short? Which part was the crux for you and how did you do it? Just curious to see how others did it. The way that worked best for me was kind of not intuitive.

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