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YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jason Sandidge, John Ficker, 1985
Season: Spring to Fall
Page Views: 3,330
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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John Groth on Raindance


Raindance is a classic route... I was skeptical but it is really good. Well left of the Davidson Wall and just right of the black rock near the pond, partly obscured by trees. Climb up an obvious feature through the trees and over a roof, then continue up really good rock via discontinuous cracks. A great climb.


Double set to 0.75 Camalot.

Photos of Raindance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: raindance overview
BETA PHOTO: raindance overview
Rock Climbing Photo: getting ready for the biz...
getting ready for the biz...
Rock Climbing Photo: out of the roof and heading for the biz in the mid...
out of the roof and heading for the biz in the mid...
Rock Climbing Photo: following josh's lead on only nuts and hexes
following josh's lead on only nuts and hexes
Rock Climbing Photo: again...
Rock Climbing Photo: moving into upper crack
moving into upper crack
Rock Climbing Photo: John on Raindance
John on Raindance

Comments on Raindance Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 28, 2006
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

fwiw- i did not believe that this route can be considered PG13- it ate pro like a fat man eating chocolate.....i put in plenty of gear through the cruxes and never felt like i was running it out....
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 29, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

I really really enjoyed leading this route. Fun climbing and great pro. This was some nice face climbing to mix up a day of mostly pure crack climbing.
By Steve Kahn
Apr 24, 2008

Kind of unusual for the area. Awesome and great.
By Paul Davidson
May 16, 2008

I am pretty sure the FA of this was Jim Haisley with me belaying, 1982.
Just a bit after a summer monsoon.

Very fun pitch, much better than it looked from the ground.
By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 25, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

An excellent route with great position & exposure, and a suprising amount of face climbing.
By Dean Hoffman
Oct 2, 2013

Sooo... Paul, maybe you have some thoughts on this, sounds like John Ficker (just heard of MP at this years Forks Fest) was pretty bummed that he was not credited on the FA of Raindance. Can anybody out there clear this up....? Credit where credit is due, right?
By Jason Sandidge
Oct 14, 2013

I too just heard of MP, good stuff. I've been out of the climbing scene for quite awhile. John F. and I put this route up in 1985. The name "Raindance" came about due to the pouring rain John encountered on the second.
By Paul Davidson
Oct 23, 2013

As for the FA, hard to really say because it's a gear route.
I do know that Jim Haisley and I climbed it in 1981 or 82. I moved back to Tucson in '83 and it was either the last or next to last summer I was in Flag that Jim and I climbed it. There was a bit of loose on it that we cleaned but not a lot. I don't recall if there was anything loose enough that it clearly had not been climbed. Seems like the climb was pretty clean, only minor stuff but it was looser at the top where we did shift a few things around for safety. And at that time, it was a very small group of folks at the Forks, all Flag locals. As far as I know, at that time it hadn't been climbed. There was no chalk anywhere at the Forks yet to give you an idea of how small the group was.

We named it Raindance because it had been a summer moonsoon blast an hour or so before. We had hunkered down in the Canyon as the rain blasted and were walking out as the fading light was coming when I looked up and thought it looked good but maybe wet. Haisley thought it looked dry enough and I mentioned it looked more like his type of route (face climbing) and he jumped on it (I'm not thrilled by wet rock.) I believe the name came from me. I think we called it 5.9+? What does Toula's guide have? I don't recall PG13, I recall great pro but maybe took some work to place? I didn't lead it so don't listen to me on the rating or gear.

I'd also heard that Mike Lawson climbed it somewhere around the next weekend in similar conditions and thought they were doing the first. (who knows, maybe they were on it before us...) Hard to say.

I hate to take away from Ficker. He's maybe never really gotten the credit as a climber that he deserves, except among the in crowd. If you were climbing at a high level and doing FAs, you knew John & his high level of ability (ditto for Jason.)

Jason's story is great about the name. I mean, how often does that happen. I've had experience in the trad world of more than a few routes being done by different parties thinking they were doing an FA but can't think of another time when two parties came up with the same name. Part of the appeal of the name for me was the unique climbing with Arizona Creeper glistening in late afternoon light from the rain drops on the leaves. At the time, that area had a good growth of creeper and wild grapes that ran up the wall near the climb.

Frankly, Jim and I have our names on enough routes out there so adding Ficker and Jason to the FA is ok by me. Doing an FA at the Forks is something special. It is a fairly unique route for the Forks as I recall.

I'd like to hear from Jason about the FA of Shittin Bricks...
That was a solid lead for the time. Probably still is because the bottom pro is sketchy. I think when Larry Coats did the 2nd he worked out a long nut toss to protect those starting moves.

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