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Flaming Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
City Girls S 
Firewater S 
Quest for Fire S 
Radachello T,TR 
Raindance S 
Reservations T 
Smoke Signal S 
Tail Feather S 
Tither's Jam T 
Tribal Boundaries S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Raindance 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pogue, Goodwin
Page Views: 6,642
Submitted By: kBobby Hanson on Jun 15, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (143)
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fall in the city

Description 

A huge slab, which looks detatched, sits at a relatively low angle on the northeast corner of Flaming Rock. Raindance goes up this slab.

(1) The first pitch wanders up blocks to a two-bolt (hanging) belay just below the big slab.

(2) Surmount the small roof and continue up... and up... the long slab, expecting some good healthy runout (nothing too severe) in places.

Either rappel the route with 2 ropes, or walk west to the top of Tribal Boundaries and rap that route with 1 rope. Beware of climbers below you on TB, as you won't be able to see them.

Protection 

16 to 18 quickdraws.


Photos of Raindance Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: top of pitch 2 - can traverse to Tribal Boundaries...
top of pitch 2 - can traverse to Tribal Boundaries...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ralph, leading the first pitch.
Ralph, leading the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Right before the chains on the first pitch.
Right before the chains on the first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: View east from the top...
View east from the top...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rodger nearing the belay on Raindance. Photo court...
Rodger nearing the belay on Raindance. Photo court...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rodger, seconding Ralph on Raindance.
Rodger, seconding Ralph on Raindance.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ralph leading first pitch.
Ralph leading first pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ralph, about 15 feet from the chains on the first ...
Ralph, about 15 feet from the chains on the first ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Calm seas with Joel and Erick on a deserted fall m...
Calm seas with Joel and Erick on a deserted fall m...
Rock Climbing Photo: The rappel down Tribal Boundaries
BETA PHOTO: The rappel down Tribal Boundaries
Rock Climbing Photo: Belay at top of pitch 1
Belay at top of pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1 of Raindance
Pitch 1 of Raindance
Rock Climbing Photo: this is where you will want to go, two easy pitche...
this is where you will want to go, two easy pitche...

Comments on Raindance Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 2, 2017
By Jason Billings
From: Draper, UT
Jun 23, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a great route and it well protected. Onl the second pitch there are about 4 5.7 friction moves before it goes to 5.5 friction. There is some space between bolts on the 5.5 stuff, but nothing scary.
By Jake Richens
From: Sl, ut
Aug 2, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

take a compass if its your first time, this area gets really confusing for first timers. there is no way you can miss the trail to the climb, just go to the south east part of the rock and look for a trail that approaches the wall. two ropes to get off the second pitch, one for the first.
By Jake Cowden
From: Hagerman, Id
Jul 26, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I took a friend on her first Multi lead here last week and was very impressed with it, very strait forward no route finding problems and plenty of bolts. however remember to bring two ropes or rap down Tribal Boundaries.
By cassandra
From: Twin Falls Id
Aug 5, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Really like the route. This was the first climb my partner and I did together and I think it works well for people who want to get a feel for one another.
By James Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
Dec 2, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This is a great route, and it falls pretty easily. I'd say on the second pitch you're best off bringing a ton of draws, or skipping bolts or you'll run out.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 1, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

With long slings (very long) and some skipped clips on the first pitch, you can combine this into one long pitch- 70meters + a short simulclimb.
By Mattcbh
Oct 3, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this a few weeks ago. Really fun. You can almost run up the last part of the 2nd pitch.
By Matt Schroer
From: Logan, Utah
Sep 20, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun climb! The bottom pitch is interesting as it traverses left over slabs, jugs, and splits in the rock. The second pitch is cruiser after the initial 20 feet! Rap off Tribal Boundaries' anchors then walk down past "City Girls" for a great little outing with excellent views of the inner city!
By Aerili
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 12, 2012

Pitch 2 reminded me of a gently undulating sea with sparkling granite cups between the whitecaps.
By Pink Thunder
From: Lakewood
Jun 10, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Bland and over-rated.
By Rodger Raubach
Jun 15, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A very enjoyable first pitch, correctly graded at 5.7. Excellent protection.
By Dr. Long Arm
Oct 19, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route is plenty of fun, and would be perfect for your first multi-pitch climb. The first pitch has an interesting traverse move, and is all very well protected. When viewed from Bumblie wall, this is a BEAUTIFUL formation. We ended up getting a rope stuck in a crack below the first set of chains on the rappel, but just watch your ropes and you shouldn't have a problem.
By Luke Werner
Jul 11, 2016

Agree that it is a great route, very well protected, nice to learn how to extend for traverses. I second Dave's comment about TR on the first set of bolted anchors, super fun face climb and crack directly underneath the anchors. would be difficult to protect if not on TR
By applewood
From: Tonasket, WA
May 7, 2017
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

haha - totally screwed up on this one and climbed the newly bolted Tail Feather (10-) instead of the first pitch of Raindance (sure seemed hard for a 5.7 at the time...lol) Anyway, saw the bolts wandering up from the north for Raindance once I was at the top of the first pitch, but thought them for the unrecommended Pygmies in a Vice.

We got the long second pitch right though and found it MUCH easier (three stars, with a couple of 5.5 moves followed by a lot of lovely 5.2-5.4 granite sun-cup climbing). Great views from the belays!
By Dan Katz
May 16, 2017

Great route, but several bolts could use replacing - Probably would be fine, given the low angle of the slab, but the spinners still don't inspire much confidence.
By dave bingham
Oct 2, 2017

Note: A number of climbers have walked too far left, past the somewhat in-obvious start of "Rain Dance" (5.7) and mistakenly got on the more direct line of "Tail Feather" (10a). It's easy to link in to "Rain Dance" from "Tail Feather", but you will find it a bit more challenging!

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