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Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ R

Type:  Boulder, 30'
Original:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ R [details]
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: ferrells on May 27, 2013

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Rainbow vies for the best climb under v4 in Leavenworth. It is so named because it follows an obvious arcing lip that reaches 20 feet above the ground.
It goes from left to right, and starts on some pinches on the arete. The start is kind of tricky, and is insecure enough to get your heart pumping. Once established on the lip, the angle of the holds is better, so it's basically jugs the rest of the way. However, the feet are essentially just smears, and it travels over a deep pit with a rocky ramp below.
Depending on your courage level, you can traverse this for a surprisingly long way. It is not uncommon to turn over the lip as soon as humanly possible, but the lip is good for a long way, and the brave will be rewarded.


This is ridge that caps the Slice of Pie boulder. The Slice of Pie boulder is left of the Hesitator boulder, which is left of the Slice of Cake boulder. Slice of Pie is an old school 5.11 toprope crack (and now completely terrifying slippery v2 with a jumble of logs and a stepped landing below).
The climbing face of the boulder is facing the wall above, so this huge rock probably exfoliated from the larger wall above it.


Don't fall.
If there is a way to protect this with pads, it would take some fairly serious engineering. I'm not saying it's impossible, but 5-6 pads, I guess, plus Phd-level spotting.

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