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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Tom Bowker, Jay Golden 3/86
Page Views: 3,195
Submitted By: lee hansche on Nov 2, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (120)
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Tim at the base of Rainbow


So this old obscurity has been retro bolted and though it is still moderate it doesnt seem like 5.5. I felt it was 5.7. Start just left of Men In White Suites and follow bolts over a couple bulges and finish up the weird ramp feature near the top of that route finishing at the top of the cliff above The Wimpy Gilman Ridge.

There are many moderate routes you should go out of your way for before you get to this one.

edit- At the crux bulge, climbing to the left of the bolts, using the jugs in the small corner ( can get a kneebar) before pulling back around right, will keep the grade in the lower range. Direct is fun too, but may be 5.7


See description.


7 glue-in eyebolts and anchor.

Photos of Rainbow Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim post crux.
Tim post crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rainbow. Good 5.6.
Rainbow. Good 5.6.
Rock Climbing Photo: Tim about to start this fun moderate.
Tim about to start this fun moderate.
Rock Climbing Photo: rainbow starts to the right of the small birch.  T...
rainbow starts to the right of the small birch. T...
Rock Climbing Photo: jakob climbing rainbow
jakob climbing rainbow

Comments on Rainbow Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 28, 2016
By M Sprague
From: New England
Nov 26, 2007

FA - Tom Bowker

In the process of being retroed with permission of Mr. Bowker. The bolts are in, but still needs some cleaning (as of late Nov07)

Climbs to the left of Men in White Suites following eyebolts up a steep section to a lower angled face/left leaning corner with interesting holds. Nice climbing with easier versions of the moves that make Rumney climbing so interesting. A kneebar can be had before pulling around the arete onto the steep face.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Nov 27, 2007

i will check out the route and update my description...
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
May 30, 2009

This was actually quite enjoyable. It's retro-bolted and ends at some glue-in bolts. We started on the ledge, slightly to the left of Rainbow. The top slab leads to a fun view of the waterfall... but bring your spider web wand or have your friend lead it first. :)
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Sep 7, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Hey Lee just noticed that this route is still posted as trad, maybe want to change it to sport now that it has been retro bolted, the anchors are two glue ins. perhaps to encourage rapping of the routes in rumney. just figured i would give you a heads up on the change
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 8, 2009

i updated the whole description.... thanks for the reminder...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Sep 9, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I agree with lee there are a lot better moderates in the area, right around the corner there is Dirtigo and the Wimpy-Gilman Ridge and there are plenty others, but this route does serve a purpose, and that purpose is to make another moderate in the area for over crowding.

...Lee it is completely retroed now so i don't think you need any trad gear on this route...
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 9, 2009

dang matt you catch me for everything... haha... i fixed it
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 10, 2009

I've only been on it once. Do you know if there is any potential for continuing past the anchors up and around the corner to Wimpy or Mogli?
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Sep 10, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

I dont know if that is possible, but that would be cool I will haave to check it out next time i am out there
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 11, 2009

I know if you lowered off of whimpy gilman the rope would run over sharp edges...
By bradley white
From: Bend
Jul 21, 2012

F.A. Tom Bowker and Jay Golden. These guys brought me out to show off this new climb and I led it. Thought then it wasn't worth while because the original way went left of all the steep sections. Free soloed it recently and followed the bolted line. It is now worth while and the top off right of the rappel bolts was exciting. Original line had one 5.5 move on it. Now there more moves at this grade and the finish may be 5.7. There used to be a forest walk off. Its gone because of the great fire. Now smooth white rock slabs, fallen trees and some briers. Rapping down is better
By J Meagher
Apr 4, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A great easy route to get on if the stuff on armed and dangerous area is busy. Nice easy jugs at the beginning and some great slab moves that might be just a little bit harder than 5.6.
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Boulder, CO
May 15, 2013

Sufficiently fun at the grade. Ideally, it should be led, cleaned on TR, then the TR-er should rap.

Cleaning on rappel is not terribly fun, efficient, or otherwise pleasant for your rope. I would suggest a prussik/autoblock to allow some traversing and moving to get to the middle bolts because of the roof.
By Adam Sadowski
From: Watertown, MA
Jul 15, 2013

I found this climb thoroughly enjoyable for the grade with fun moves throughout. Maybe 5.7 instead of the 5.6 listed in the book.

IIRC it has rap links at the anchor now. I lowered off my draws and had my second clean and rap.

Still a bit sharp but not as dirty as people said it was.
By Russ Keane
Oct 16, 2013

This climb is beautiful. Very nice experience for the grade.
By Jay Vance
From: Portland, Maine
May 8, 2015

Just an FYI, this route has 7 bolts
By Travis Grayyy
Sep 28, 2016

Was prepped to rap down, but pleasantly surprised that there are quick clips now. Still could be worth rapping because of rope drag. Definitely have a follower clean it.

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