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Rainbow Tower 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 220', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1+ [details]
FA: Jon Butler, Jesse Harvey, 27 August 1995.
Page Views: 1,393
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 9, 2007

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Ben Kiessel climbing the shallow holes on pitch th...

Description 

Rainbow Tower climbs an obvious, giant, left-facing dihedral.

P1- Climb through 10' of mank to get into a thin, splitter crack. Climb this crack on small gear for a ways until it widens out and you see a pin out right that will take you to a 2 pin anchor in an alcove. (5.6, C1, 115').

P2- To continue form the alcove there are 3 crack options...you pick. They will all work. We climbed the center crack with very awkward 5.9 to get into a chimney. Climb the chimney to two aid bolts. Aid past the two bolts to the Torpedo Block and an anchor in a notch. (5.9, C1, 65') - If you climb the right crack, it will meet up with the center crack in the chimney. If you climb the left crack, it will meet up with the other two just before the torpedo block.

P3-Climb the short crack to pin holes. Hand place pins in the holes and aid up the face to a mantle onto the summit. (5.7, C1+, 40').

When we climbed this, we topped out on the summit to find no anchor. The rope that was slung around the summit by the last party to rappel must have blown away. We decided that two pins would be less of an eye sore than a rope around the summit, so I replaced the pins that we once there.

Descent - rappel from the summit to the notch on top of pitch 2. From here, do one double rope rappel to the ground.

Location 

Rainbow Tower is southeast of Kissing Couple. When walking down from Upper Monument Canyon Trailhead, pass Clueless Tower and it is the next tower on your left.

Protection 

Triples of black Alien to #2 Camalot, Single set from #3 to #4 Camalot, Stoppers, cord to replace the anchor. 4 baby angles for hand placing in the holes on the last pitch. 2 ropes to rappel. No hammer, the route goes clean.


Photos of Rainbow Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting an early start on pitch one.
Getting an early start on pitch one.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Pickren wrestling his way into the old school...
Matt Pickren wrestling his way into the old school...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rainbow Tower.  I'm at the top of the first pitch ...
Rainbow Tower. I'm at the top of the first pitch ...

Comments on Rainbow Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By Brad Brandewie
May 28, 2008

More photos and a TR at: piquaclimber.net/past/rainbowd...
By Peter Blank
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
Nov 18, 2013

Those piton holes on the last pitch are pretty retarded. I'd hesitate to call them usable.

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