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Rainbow Crack 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 173
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jun 25, 2012

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Stephen on the starting hand crack


A gorgeous crack! Starts off with steep fingers and hands, then turns into an off-width struggle at the top. Reminds me of "Via Apia".


Heading South from Elephant Rock, pass the Tomahawk and the Monolith Blocks. Where the trail dips into a little saddle, beyond (South of) Monolith Blocks (and before the Monolith bouldering area), turn right (East) and walk North along the base of the rock for 10-20 yards.

N 43.42233
W 89.72404


Gear to 2-3 inches is adequate, but you'll appreciate gear to 8-10 inches for the upper offwidth.

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By Doug Hemken
From: Madison, WI
Jul 4, 2012

Went back and did this one a second time. It is possible to avoid most of the offwidth moves at the top, if you find just the right face holds. In that case, this might be more of a 5.8 than 5.9.
By James Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Sep 27, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Doug's comparison to Via Apia is apt. If you've done that, enjoyed it, and found yourself dreaming of a harder version of it, then Rainbow Crack is for you. It's a fun offwidth (if you're into that sort of thing - not that there's anything wrong with that) and it climbs pretty well. My last three pieces were (in order) C4's #4, #5, #6 - and I was grateful to have the #6 C4 near the top. If you're sitting at the base and contemplating leaving the #6 behind; don't.
By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Oct 23, 2016

No real hand jams in the low to middle section of Rainbow Crack More like
off-with rattle fingers I would say. I found gear in all the little horizontals. I call this route 5.9.. especially on the onsight lead.

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