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Rain Screw S 

Rain Screw 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Pell and Alvino Pon, Winter 1994
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: Mark Pell on Oct 24, 2015

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There are two face cruxes on the 2nd pitch. One is just above the bolted belay station on the sloping ramp: pull onto the wall up and right of the belay, then traverse left on edges to gain the bolt line and exposed first crux. The climbing eases to about 5.9 through the middle of the pitch, passing two (or three?) bolts. The second crux is near the top at the last protection bolt- a layback flake leads to face holds then a long reach left to the sloping edge of the buttress. An exposed and exciting but easier move leads to the 2-bolt belay on top.

The leader should bring up the second or rap and let the other climber lead the pitch separately. The climbing is generally steep and sustained on the entire pitch.


The route is located near the left end of the cliff's main central buttress and climbs to the left end of the summit ridge. The best descent is by rappel via two raps on single rope.


Pitch 1 gains the base of the obvious, right-leaning ramp on the central buttress from below and left via moderate face climbing with limited clean protection, then it takes the ramp up and right to the two-bolt belay station midway up the cliff, below the visible line of protection bolts for pitch 2.

Take a light, widely-sized rack of cams and nuts if you want to approach on lead from the base of the cliff.

The recommended access to the belay on the ramp, however, is on rappel from chains on the 2-bolt top anchor, reached by a scramble along the summit ridge from the right end, gained by hiking around behind the crag. In other words, we recommend you rap in and just do the top pitch as a sport climb. An alternate first pitch leading directly to the belay via fairly nice 5.8-5.9 face climbing over a bulge is possible. It was toproped by us but never installed - anyone is welcome to add this pitch if they want, resulting in a nice 2-pitch sport route.

The second, crux pitch of this climb originally had four (or five?) protection bolts with a supplementary piton in the middle of the pitch. This piton is probably not there now, or not reliable. It's also possible to place a few nuts and cams up to about 1-1/2" on pitch 2, but it is probably better to just clip the bolts and hurry.

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By Mark Pell
Oct 24, 2015

'Rain Screw' is the non-vulgar version of the original title for this route, "Rain F**k." I made several trips alone to Ralston Roost to bolt it while my friend Alvino was working alone to put in the first routes at the Garden of Stone above Industrial Wall at Mickey Maus, near Eldo. My effort was interrupted by rain and lightning every time as thunderstorms approached suddenly from the west with about 15 minutes' notice. When Alvino and I finally went out together to lead my new route, we were stormed off twice before succeeding. Subsequent trips with other friends from Boulder also saw us rained out or rained off about half the time we took them out to share this route. While it's an interesting, unique climb, and I liked it a lot, the rapidly changeable weather at Golden Gate is the main reason we did not fully develop this otherwise very nice little crag, which has potential for a number of new trad and sport climbs over a range of grades. Just as with other Front Range crags, keep an eye to the west for storms and get down before they arrive.

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