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The Black Jack Boulder
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Rain Man 

Hueco: V4- Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 569
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Nov 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

A fun cave hidden between a boulder and a small cave just behind the umbrella boulder. Fun route that's fairly short and may be soft for the grade Start in the cave move out to a flake and then hit the crux which is a fairly good crimp out right then pop up to the jug above your head, then hands up to good holds on top. Top out and jump off. Pretty straight forward when you see it. This is a newer route and the holds as still a little rough on your hands, this route is ultra fun because of the inverted climbing for a few moves.

"Today i cleaned a route that climbs to the right of this problem and meets up at the jug "finish hold"... My line continues straight up the boulder to a pretty moderate though dangerous top out (5.8 or 5.9)... So though i didn't intend it, i have created a finish to this problem if anyone wanted to climb it..." this was from Lee this is an option if you dont want to jump off after the drop off... Thanks lee


Other possible variations going out left from this problem...looks hard!!

Location 

It's a cave hidden on the black jack boulder, get to it by walking by the umbrella boulder and instead of going down the hill walk straight past a birch tree and its right there.

Protection 

Pad and spotter because you dont want to hit your head on the boulder,
and maybe a small carpet (to wipe your shoes on) because the landing may be muddy.


Comments on Rain Man Add Comment
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By Chad Laflamme
From: North Conway, NH
May 5, 2009
rating: V3+ 6A+

Does not feel like even V-4 to me. Maybe its because I'm tall. seems 3-ish. But i'm no grading expert...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
May 5, 2009

Chad I agree man but I think it may be because we are tall I have seen people who are four inches shorter struggle, plus when I posted the route I didn't think I should challenge the FA's judgement, or Tim Kemple who wrote the guide book I got the rating from. But it certainly doesn't feel that hard to me either.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 10, 2009

Today i cleaned a route that climbs to the right of this problem and meets up at the jug "finish hold"... My line continues straight up the boulder to a pretty moderate though dangerous top out (5.8 or 5.9)... So though i didn't intend it, i have created a finish to this problem if anyone wanted to climb it...
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Sep 10, 2009

Lee I added you comment into the description thanks for the info

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