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This route tackles the bad-sized crack on the prominent overhanging prow in the middle of the crag. A combination to jamming and liebacking runs to the top of the crack. A big reach to a match on the sloping lip allows you to clip the anchors. Half the fun is hanging on the lip to make the clip. Mantling the sloping shelf past the anchor and standing up into the choss above would add significantly to the difficulty, and is left as an exercise for the next generation.
Three bolts to a pair of anchor bolts with goldshuts.
Aug 11, 2002
Cool climb! Hard! I kept popping off after the second clip, even with my body right next to the third bolt... the fall takes you right down to your partner, with about two feet to spare. The climb is pretty overhung, so no chance of touching rock (just be aware of the pointy rock on the ground in front of your belayer.) There's a key hold past the third bolt--kind of over the top and back down behind the large flake--that the crack leads straight up to. From there push up, and if you need some extra staying power, slide your right calf behind the flake to keep you in place. Rest, and go for the hangers!
From: New Haven, CT
Jun 10, 2010
Nice climb. Much easier if you have decent thin hands technique.