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RAIN IN ZION 05/07/16 and 05/08/16
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May 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: blah
I am posting another one of these. It never seems to stop people. However, on the off chance people just don't know. It is customary for your own safety and the longevity of routes on desert sandstone... to wait at least 24hrs since it last rained. If it rains for multiple days, you should probably wait half as many days as it rained. If the forecast calls for rain that day, don't climb. If you just gotta get on something, and its questionable, get on something wide. Please don't climb routes with delicate face holds when they are wet. when the 11c becomes 12c, people will come looking.


It rained yesterday all damn day, black driving rain. The Canyon is soaked to the bone. There was a 40-90% chance for today and people were climbing Shunes buttress 11+. This route has a delicate face traverese and thin cracks. It's also is a water course for the feature that parts of the route climb.

There is a lifetime of gorgeous and incredible limestone that is overhung enough to climb in the rain, 45 mins to an hr away... I know, its far, I know, you came for "blah blah blah, its my only time to blah blah."

I get it, I still drive to the limestone. I drove to limestone 3 times last week due to rain. I want nothing more than sweet splitty splitters, and I was there slicing my tips like a real sporto.

If the party who was on the route gets my note, want to talk it out. over a beer we can discuss why your vacation isn't worth the future enjoyment of hundreds or thousands of others. why its bad for the anchor bolts which generates even more work to my sisyphean work load of bolt replacement in the canyon.

This ain't YO!semite, lets shape up or ship the fuck out.

If you want to blast me for giving a fuck, flame on,
Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
127 points
May 8, 2016
Good for you. But it really is just another sisyphean task you're attempting. Blame it on Brian and his guidebook. Zion should have never been made out to be a destination cragging area. Darin Berdinka
Joined May 1, 2009
103 points
May 8, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: blah
replacing bolts due to over use in wet rock is not Brian's fault. there are just some many shite ones way make more for me? why... Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
127 points
May 18, 2016
How are you certain that the bolt issues you describe are due to their use in wet rock? Anyone who climbs in the park knows the rock is generally soft, and even under the best of conditions can turn to sugar. Just curious if you have scientific proof or what you are basing that decision on.

Thank you for your replacement work, Rob.
Andre H.
From Boulder
Joined Nov 8, 2012
16 points
May 18, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: blah
It's totally anecdotal. However when the surface is wet it deform more easily around the bolt making an ovalized hole. Glue ins mitigate the problem. I am doing my best to replace expansion bolts with glue on classics. Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Joined Dec 19, 2011
127 points
May 19, 2016
Cool, thank you for the honest answer and even moreso for your work out there. Glue-ins aren't light work, but they are the right thing to replace with in soft rock. Thanks Rob! Andre H.
From Boulder
Joined Nov 8, 2012
16 points


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